Rain Brothers Tutorials

When the Well Runs Low: What’s Causing It—and What We Can Do About It

Tue, 13 May 2025 18:03:59 GMT

Fixing Dry Wells with Smart Water Storage and Rainwater Recharge

Across the country, aquifers are dropping—and more homeowners are finding their wells can no longer keep up. The signs are clear: sputtering faucets, wells that run dry by noon, and growing dependence on costly trucked-in water. But this isn’t just bad luck. There are real, preventable causes behind it—and practical steps we can take to turn things around.

The Real Causes of Drying Wells

Aquifers don’t empty overnight. It’s a slow decline driven by the way we use land and water:

Overpumping for industrial-scale agriculture and commercial operations
Urban sprawl that replaces fields and forests with concrete, blocking natural groundwater recharge
Stormwater systems that treat rain like a nuisance—funneling it into sewers and rivers instead of back into the ground
High-demand infrastructure, including AI data centers and server farms, which use millions of gallons of water for cooling and pull heavily from local groundwater sources

In short: we’re using more water than the earth can naturally replace—and losing the chance to recharge it every time it rains.

A Two-Part Solution That Works

The good news? We already have the tools to respond. In fact, some of the best answers are simple, local, and ready to go.

1. Low-Yield Well Water Storage Systems

If your well produces too slowly to meet peak demand, that doesn’t mean it’s finished. A low-yield well system allows you to collect water steadily into a storage tank, then use a second pump to deliver water into your home at normal pressure.

Works with your existing well

Costs under $2,000 in equipment

Avoids the need to drill deeper or relocate

Can be installed DIY or with help from a local plumber or electrician

This system helps families stay on their land, live more comfortably, and manage water more wisely.

2. Rainwater Harvesting and Groundwater Recharge

We need to shift our mindset: rainwater is not wastewater. Every rooftop and driveway is a chance to collect and store precious water. Even better, much of it can be reintroduced to the ground to help refill aquifers.

Install rain barrels or cisterns to capture water from roofs
Use permeable landscaping, bioswales, or recharge beds to let it soak into the earth
Use captured water for irrigation, washing, or—with treatment—indoor use

These practices not only reduce pressure on wells but serve as a blueprint for entire communities.

A Model for the Future—Rooted in Local Responsibility

This isn’t about politics. It’s about personal responsibility and community resilience. With a few tools, a bit of planning, and a shift in mindset, we can fix what’s broken—starting in our own backyards.

We don’t need to wait for outside help. We don’t need to blame or debate. We just need to act. These systems work. They’re affordable. And when enough of us take part, they become a model for what’s possible on a larger scale.

How to determine your well pump's HP and voltage

Tue, 13 May 2025 18:03:04 GMT

Finding your pump's HP and voltage is easier than you think...

If you're thinking about getting our Reservoir Tank Kit for Low Producing Wells , you'll notice that we ask for both the voltage and the HP rating for your existing well pump. But what if you don't have that information?

It takes some detective work, but getting a range is actually easier than you think!

Determining Pump's Voltage

Figuring out the well pump's voltage is quite easy. To do this:

*Go to your main electric panel and find the breaker for your well pump. If the breaker takes up two slots in the panel, it is a 230V pump. If it only takes up one slot, it is 115V pump.

*It is important to note that 99% of well pumps are going to be 230V. Very rarely do we see 115V well pumps.

*If you are not comfortable identifying breakers, or if you do not know which breaker supplies power to your well pump (hey, it happens), then you can use a multi-meter and take the two leads to read the incoming voltage on your pressure switch. Here is a video showing how a pressure switch is wired .

Determining Pump's Horsepower

To figure out your pump's HP (horsepower), there's no sure-fire way to tell without pulling the pump, but we can sure take an educated guess at it:

*If your pump does NOT have a control box anywhere inside your home (this would be located close to your existing pressure tank or pump controls, and would look like this ), then, good news, you can assume that your well pump is under 1.5 HP, and you can select that option on the Reservoir Tank System Package page. Pumps that do not need external control boxes are called "2-wire pumps."

*If your pump does have an external control box, then it will say "Control Box" on a sticker on the front, and it should list your well pump motor's HP rating. Pumps that do need external control boxes are called "3-wire pumps."

*If you're unsure of the above, then you can look at the amp rating of the breaker that supplies your well pump. While this isn't foolproof, it'll provide a good guess. Here's a chart of what the breaker size should be, based on the HP of the pump:
*115V, 1/2HP = 30 Amp single pole

*230V, 1/2HP = 15 Amp double pole

*230V, 3/4HP = 20 Amp double pole

*230V, 1HP = 25 Amp double pole

*230V, 1.5HP = 30 Amp double pole

*If your pump has an external control box, and the HP is not written on the box, then the breaker sizing for standard 4", 3-wire pumps is as follows:

*115V, 1/2HP = 30 Amp single pole

*230V, 1/2HP = 15 Amp single pole

*230V, 3/4HP = 20 Amp double pole

*230V, 1HP = 25 Amp double pole

*230V, 1.5HP = 30 Amp double pole

*230V, 2HP = 30 Amp double pole

*230V, 3HP = 40 Amp double pole

*230V, 5HP = 60 Amp double pole

It is important to note that not all installers follow these breaker sizing guidelines, so, again, this is just giving us an approximation.

Finally, if you really want to lock in and find out your pump's HP, then the very best thing to do is use a clamp meter and measure the amp draw on one of your pump's hot leads. With that information, you can use Franklin Electric's AIM Manual (page 52) to get a good approximation of your pump's HP based on the amp draw under load.

What to Expect with a New Concrete Rain Harvesting Cistern

info@rainbrothers.com (Rain Brothers) — Thu, 10 Apr 2025 14:02:50 GMT

Break-In, Water Quality & Maintenance Tips

Rain harvesting cisterns are a great water source, plain and simple. Unlike wells, which can be hit or miss in terms of water quality, rain cisterns are reliable, soft, and clean, with low maintenance on the part of the homeowner if installed correctly.

It's also important to know that there is a bit of a "break in" period with new cisterns. If you're thinking of installing a rain harvesting system for your home, here are the top things to expect from new cisterns, as well as maintenance requirements on systems:

Breaking In Your Cistern

1) If you're using a new concrete cistern, expect the pH of your water to be elevated for the first several months . New concrete will increase pH. Always test the pH to make sure it is within safe range for consumption, but expect initial pH readings on concrete tanks to be upwards of 10 and perhaps even higher. Eventually, the acidity of rainwater and the calcium in concrete will help balance each other, and, once the new concrete cistern is "broken in" (generally after one or two full fill-empty cycles), the pH will fluctuate closer to neutral or slightly above (7.5-9). Here is a detailed article on the subject: https://www.rainbrothers.com/concrete-cistern-ph

Water Quality Issues

2) If you have a new asphalt shingle roof, expect there to be tannins in your water and for the water to be slightly discolored at first. This, too, goes away with time, but it's important to know that you may get an initial light yellowing of the water. This is normal, and is easy to filter out . Here is a video that we made that describes this issue: https://youtube.com/shorts/Wy-e3U8Mby8?feature=share and https://youtu.be/JeWhR8vd-2Q

Maintaining Your Cistern

3) Cisterns are easy to maintain. With the right pre-filtering roofwasher , such as the Wisy Vortex filter or the Monjolin Smart Filter , your cistern will only need to be cleaned every 15-20 years. For the Wisy Vortex filters, the stainless steel screen gets removed every 1-3 months and placed in a dishwasher or sprayed down with a hose. If using the Monjolin filters for your roofwasher, we recommend cleaning the filter element every 4-6 months.

Inside the home, your sediment reduction filters would get replaced every 4-12 months, depending on water usage (a noticeable drop in water pressure, beyond which you can tolerate, is a telltale sign that your filters are getting clogged and need to be replaced). And the UV sterilizer (our recommended way of removing bacteria from your water supply) needs a new UV lamp every year, with an annual cleaning of the quartz sleeve at that time. Beyond that, it's a good idea to help keep the water inside your cistern oxidized by either adding a small amount of chlorine pellets (1/2 cup) into your cistern every 3 months or by occasionally running an ozone generator inside the cistern.

Conclusion

Rain harvesting cisterns offer a reliable, clean, and low-maintenance water source—especially when installed correctly and maintained with care. While new systems may have an initial break-in period with elevated pH or mild discoloration, these issues are temporary and easily managed with proper filtration and monitoring. With long intervals between major cleanings, simple filter maintenance, and occasional disinfection, cisterns provide an efficient, sustainable water solution for homeowners. Understanding what to expect up front helps ensure your system performs safely and effectively for years to come.

How to Install a Wisy Vortex Filter for Rainwater Prefiltration

Thu, 31 Oct 2024 20:51:18 GMT

How to Install a Wisy Vortex Filter

A Step-by-Step Guide to Installing a Wisy Vortex Filter

Installing a Wisy Vortex filter might seem daunting at first, but it's a project that a determined homeowner can tackle with some patience and preparation. In this guide, we'll take you through the process—a task rated a six on a ten-point difficulty scale.

Preparing the Base

First, select a suitable location for the filter. Here, we've chosen a stone base, laying about four inches of 304 limestone. This type of limestone is known for its compactable qualities, providing a solid foundation for the Vortex filter. Different states may refer to it differently, but in Ohio, we call it 304 limestone, which consists of crushed limestone fragments. Ensure that your base is firmly tamped down for stability.

Piping and Positioning

Next, let's discuss the piping. We are using a four-inch SDR 35 pipe, commonly known as a thin wall sewer and drain pipe. Make sure this fits into the gasket fitting of the Wisy Vortex. You'll need to adapt this to your downspouts using a Schedule 40 four-inch drain line with a four-inch rubber no-hub coupling.

There's an eight-inch drop in pipe elevation from the water entry to the clean water exit in the Wisy. Consider this in your calculations and ensure your inlet slopes down towards the cistern. On the opposite side of the Wisy, you'll install a trash outlet to carry debris to an overflow point. This end also has a two-inch drop, so maintaining the correct levels is crucial for proper flow.

Ensuring Efficiency

Level installation is key. The vortex filter functions optimally when the unit is perfectly level, allowing water to spin around the vortex, utilizing centrifugal force for enhanced filtration. This setup ensures water is thoroughly cleaned before entering the cistern.

Sealing the Joints

You should seal up all joints to prevent leaks, which could compromise the system's integrity. Although the top piece of the filter swivels for angle adjustments, securing it with a bead of silicone around the seams is a good practice. The same applies to all gasketed fittings and any risers on the vortex body—add silicone, fit everything in place, and firmly screw it down.

Backfilling and Final Steps

Finally, re-check all angles and elevations before backfilling with 304 stone. The inlet should be higher than the cistern to accommodate any settling of the ground. Once satisfied with the setup and after ensuring everything remains in place, backfill around the filter for added security.

By following these steps, you'll successfully install a Wisy Vortex filter, providing efficient water filtration to your system. Happy building!

Wisy Vortex Filter

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Roof-Washers-Pre-Filters-c73647304

Ohio Health Department Approved Rainwater Harvesting Installation

Wed, 30 Oct 2024 18:56:42 GMT

How to set up a Rainwater Harvesting Cistern (concrete): Step by step how to

This is a step-by-step overview of one of our recent installations. This was installed using Ohio Health Department standards, which are the most stringent regulations in the USA. This is a 5500-gallon precast concrete cistern system . All components, including the concrete cistern, can be purchased through our catalog or by requesting a quote for a system install .

How to set up a Rainwater Harvesting Cistern (concrete)

Step 1: Excavate cistern pit and bed pit with 4-6" of crushed stone or sand with level bedding

Step 2: Dig trench (below frost level) for water supply line to the house

Step 3: Drill hole through foundation wall for waterline/electric

Step 4: Set cistern tank

Step 5: Connect water line and cabling (electric) to cistern

Step 6: Dig downspout drainage trenching . Install 4" Solid Core Schedule 4 PVC and bed pipe with crushed stone/sand/clean fill.

Step 7: Install Roofwasher filter. In this case we used our Wisy Vortex unit.

Step 8: Install overflow from Roofwasher/cistern

Step 9: Install rodent/mosquito guard on overflow/discharge

Step 10: Bed roof washer filler with crushed stone . Ensure all joints and wrapped/caulked using Wisy Vortex Filter

Step 11: Run any remaining drainage . Ensure there is fall on the pipe so everything drains towards the cistern.

Step 12: Backfill and grade

Note: Consider future excavation. Here we left the pipe exposed so septic contractors would locate our pipe easily when they dig into an area.

Step 13: Install inside controls/filters . Run waterline electric cabling through foundation wall and into pressure tank. (Pump is submersible and inside cistern). Install shut off valve immediately after pressure tank (downstream). Install two stage sediment reduction (down to 5 micron absolute) . Be sure to use NSF approved filter housings. Install NSF Class A UV Sterilizer . Install smooth-nosed sample tamp immediately after filtration treatment, followed by main water shut off valve. Use hydraulic cement inside and outside to seal water line penetration.

Optional: Install tank level gauge

Request an estimate for a full system install

All components, including the concrete cistern, can be purchased through our catalog or by requesting a quote for a system install .

Enhance Your Rainwater Harvesting System with an Ozone Generator

Mon, 28 Oct 2024 13:38:12 GMT

Watch the Y outube short here: Installing ozone generator into water tank

If you're into rainwater harvesting, you know that maintaining clean water in your storage tanks is essential. One effective way to achieve this is by using an ozone generator. In this post, we'll explore how to properly install an ozone generator inside a water tank, like a cistern, and ensure that your water stays fresh, free of algae, and safe from harmful bacteria.

Why Use an Ozone Generator?

Ozone generators are perfect for keeping rainwater clean without the use of harsh chemicals. Our recommended model, the JED 203, is designed specifically for this purpose. However, there's a small challenge: these generators can only pump ozone into water at a maximum depth of 4 feet. To overcome this, we've devised an innovative solution.

Introducing the Floating Tether System

To address the depth limitation, we offer a floating tether option. This clever addition is a floating ball attached to four feet of chain. This chain can be zip-tied to the air stone of the ozone generator. The air stone is responsible for delivering ozone into the water. With this setup, the air stone hangs precisely four feet from the top of your cistern, regardless of the water level.

How It Works

The floating ball allows the air stone to adjust with the water level, moving up or down as needed. This ensures consistent ozone injection into the water supply. Once set up, you can simply plug the ozone generator into a timer. Adjust the timer to run the generator every few hours for short durations. This regular infusion of ozone will help keep your water tank fresh, reducing algae growth and controlling bacterial levels.

Conclusion

Using an ozone generator with a floating tether system is an easy and efficient way to maintain clean water in your rainwater harvesting system. Whether you're a seasoned rainwater harvester or just starting, this setup can significantly enhance your system's functionality. Investing in a quality ozone generator can save you time and trouble in the long run, ensuring you always have access to clean, fresh water.

Easy peasy! Follow these straightforward steps, and your water tank will stay in optimal condition without any hassle.

Order Ozone Generators in our Catalog

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Ozone-Filter-c87831205

Installing Your Springer Series Cistern Pump: A Comprehensive Guide

Thu, 24 Oct 2024 14:46:11 GMT

How To Install Your Springer Series Cistern Pump

Installing a cistern pump can seem daunting, especially if you're not familiar with the ins and outs of pump mechanics. Luckily, Jonathan from Rain Brothers is here to guide you through the process of installing your new Springer Series traditional cistern pump. Follow these quick tips to ensure a smooth setup and efficient operation.

Unboxing and Inspecting Your Pump

The first step in setting up your traditional cistern pump is to unbox it and make a quick inspection. One key feature to notice is the float switch, which comes already wired into the pump motor. This switch is crucial because it regulates the pump's operation by moving a metal ball inside to open or close the circuit.

Correct Positioning of the Float Switch

It's important not to leave the float switch dangling from the cord. The swing of the metal ball impacts when your pump turns on and off, causing irregular timing if left too loose. Jonathan recommends using either tape or zip ties to secure the float switch to the pump body. Aim to have about four to five inches of cord between the ball float and its tether point. This configuration tightens the movement range, leading to a more precise pump operation.

Understanding the Pump's Check Valve

When examining the pump, Jonathan highlights the discharge side that comes with a black cap. Inside, there's a plug-like piece known as a check valve. Contrary to what you might think, this valve should remain intact as it prevents water pressure from flowing back into the cistern. This built-in check valve eliminates the need for an additional external one, maintaining pressure in the discharge line as necessary.

Proper Threading and Voltage Check

Your pump also comes with specific threading measurements, namely inch and a quarter female pipe thread. However, perhaps the most crucial aspect before installation is double-checking the voltage specifications of your pump. The Springer Series offers both 115-volt and 230-volt models. Verify the voltage on the box and the pump to ensure that you have the correct model. For a 115-volt pump, the black wire is your hot wire, white is neutral, and green is ground. Conversely, with the 230-volt model, both black and white are hot, and green is ground, without a need for a neutral wire.

Troubleshooting Tips

If you find yourself facing issues upon startup, Jonathan points out a helpful troubleshooting video that covers all the necessary steps to identify and fix potential problems. With these steps, you can rest assured that your pump will be operational quickly. Rain Brothers have a strong track record with the reliability of these pumps, with minimal failures over years of sales.

By following these detailed instructions, you'll have your Springer Series cistern pump installed correctly and efficiently. They are known for durability and performance, ensuring that your water management system runs smoothly. If any issues arise, remember to consult the troubleshooting video to guide you back on track. Enjoy the lasting benefits of your new pump!

Troubleshooting Video

https://youtu.be/4Gi-x3Bnluc

Springer Series 1/2HP TRADITIONAL Cistern Pump

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Springer-Series-1-2HP-TRADITIONAL-Cistern-Pump-p461750607

Underground Reservoir Systems for Low Yield Wells

Mon, 21 Oct 2024 13:49:45 GMT

How to Install And Underground Well Reservoir System

In today's blog post, we're diving into the details of creating an underground reservoir for low flow, low yield wells. This method provides a more reliable water system, especially when you need more than just a 500-gallon basement tank. Jonathan from Rain Brothers shares insights and practical steps to install a 2,500-gallon concrete cistern effectively.

Understanding the Need for an Underground Cistern

For some households with low yield wells, an indoor reservoir might not suffice, especially when larger storage is necessary. Installing a large underground tank outside to route your well water can be a viable solution. Additionally, having the capability to truck in water becomes essential if your well struggles to produce enough.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Digging and Preparing the Site

The installation begins by digging a pit about 15 feet away from the existing well. Simultaneously, a trench for the new cable supplying power to the cistern pump is also dug from the house to the site.

Locating Existing Infrastructure

The existing well has a water line and a power line running through it. The water line and cable, identified by disturbed backfill soil, are carefully dug up with an excavator and spotter.

Setting the Concrete Tank

A 2,500-gallon concrete tank is set in place. The existing water line is modified with two 90-degree fittings, sprayed with pink tape for easy visibility, and prepared for connection to the new system.

Connecting the Water Line

The objective is to reroute the water from the well into the cistern and then from the cistern to the house. The existing water line is intercepted, connected to the cistern, and then tied back to supply water to the house.

Connecting the Electrical System

The well's cable contains three wires, two hot wires, and a ground. One hot wire is intercepted and routed through a float switch in the cistern, which controls the pump based on the water level.

Ensuring a Reliable System

A crucial component added to the system is a pump saver. This device detects when the well is drawing air, shuts off the pump to prevent it from running dry, and allows the well time to recharge.

Setting Up the Final Connections

After installing the tank and rerouting the lines, the next step is to connect the new pump in the cistern to the existing pressure switch in the house. Ensuring that the new pump operates at the same voltage as the previous one avoids the need to change the panel breaker.

Testing and Completion

The system undergoes testing to ensure functionality. Once the float switch activates and stops as expected with water level changes, the installation is complete.

Conclusion

This project offers a comprehensive guide to enhancing water supply reliability for households with low yield wells. For those with pumps exceeding 1.5 horsepower, some additional design considerations are necessary, so consult with a professional if your system includes a larger pump.

For additional guidance, Rain Brothers provides a Low Yield Well Reservoir Kit and offers a series of installation videos available in the description below.

Closing

We hope this guide has been informative and helpful. For further questions, or to purchase the reservoir kit, visit RainBrothers.com. Please like, share, and subscribe for more insightful posts. Thank you for reading!

How To Use Submersible Pumps for Drip Irrigation

Wed, 09 Oct 2024 12:16:42 GMT

One of the most common questions we receive is: “Can I use a submersible pump for drip irrigation systems?”

The answer can be a bit complicated because there are different types of drip irrigation setups. To address this question properly, it’s essential to first identify which kind of drip irrigation system is being used.

1. Drip Tape

Drip tape is a low-cost, often disposable, flat plastic tape designed to operate at a maximum of 10 PSI. Most systems with drip tape require a 10 PSI pressure regulator to prevent over-pressurization that could damage the system. Since 10 PSI is very low pressure, many submersible pumps, including some designed for cisterns, exceed this threshold and create challenges.

A submersible pump for drip irrigation must be carefully matched with the system’s performance curve, which illustrates the relationship between flow (in gallons per minute or GPM) and pressure (in pounds per square inch or PSI). For example, the Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW pump operates at 52 PSI when providing a flow of 5 GPM, but drops to 38 PSI at 10 GPM. At the required 10 PSI for drip tape, this pump would produce 23 GPM, much higher than needed for most systems using drip tape.

So, can a submersible pump be used for drip tape?

Yes and no.

Without enough flow, a submersible pump like the Grundfos SBA will rapidly build pressure and shut off, leading to short cycling and potentially burning out the pump. The solution is to modify the system by installing a “T” fitting between the valve and the pressure regulator. Adding a return line back to your water tank helps manage the excess pressure and flow, reducing the frequency of pump cycling. This also keeps your water circulating, preventing algae buildup.

2. Drip Emitters

Drip emitters are another common type of drip irrigation that also operates at low pressure, but they significantly reduce flow compared to drip tape. Most pumps are not ideal for systems with drip emitters unless you’re using a large number of them simultaneously. Instead, gravity-fed systems with zero-pressure emitters, such as Flag Emitters, work best. The pressure created from an above-ground water tank is typically enough to sustain this type of drip system.

3. Drip Tubing

Drip tubing is different from both drip tape and emitters in that it can operate under higher pressures, typically between 50 and 60 PSI. It’s more robust, and submersible pumps can easily power drip tubing systems, provided they’re matched to the pump’s performance curve.

To properly size your system, check the specifications of the drip tubing, such as the spacing of emitters and the flow rate per emitter. For example, if you are using tubing with emitters spaced every 12 inches, with a flow rate of 0.5 gallons per hour (GPH), you’d need about 960 feet of tubing to reach a flow of 8 GPM to match the performance of a submersible pump like the Grundfos SBA at 50 PSI.

If you’re working with a smaller system, install a return line to send excess water back to your tank. This prevents over-pressurization and extends the life of your submersible pump.

By following these guidelines, you can successfully use a submersible pump for drip irrigation while avoiding common mistakes like short cycling, system blowouts, and pump damage.

To set up a Drip Irrigation System like the one in the video above you'll need:

Springer Series 1/2HP TRADITIONAL Cistern Pump

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Springer-Series-1-2HP-TRADITIONAL-Cistern-Pump-p461750607

No-Lead Pressure Relief Valve 100 PSI

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/No-Lead-Pressure-Relief-Valve-100-PSI-p502654562

And you'll need to find a 1" Quarter Turn Valve & a Water Key at a big box store near you. We do not carry those in our inventory.

What To Do With An Old Cistern

Sun, 14 Jul 2024 14:37:07 GMT

Introduction

Discovering an old cistern in your yard can be an intriguing and unexpected find. Whether you stumbled upon it by hitting a cast iron cap or noticed a deepening hole lined with bricks, these historical structures were once a crucial part of early infrastructure. This guide will help you understand what options you have if you uncover an old cistern, including steps to restore it or replace it, ensuring it becomes a functional and valuable part of your property.

Restoring an Old Cistern

If you're reading this, chances are you just discovered an old brick or stone cistern in your yard. Perhaps you hit a cast iron cap? Or maybe you were out in the yard and noticed a small hole and, as you dug around, noticed that hole got deeper and deeper, and that there were bricks lining the hole?

Cisterns were a huge part of early infrastructure. It was commonplace – especially in the north – to incorporate a cistern when a new home was constructed pre-1920. In fact, I can almost guarantee that homes built here in Columbus, Ohio by or before 1920 had a cistern or a hand-dug well on-site, and the cistern was probably made from brick, was hand-dug, and was made into a sphere (typically proportional in size to the roof from which it was harvesting rain). We ourselves have come across and/or been inside more than 50 old cisterns within Columbus city limits alone.

So what are your options if you discover an old cistern?

Old cisterns can be relatively easy to restore if the following are true:

It is not full of debris;
The downspouts are still connected to the existing downspout drains; and
The cistern is still water tight.

Typically, though, none of those three things are true with old cisterns we come across, in which case it can be a very labor-intensive process to get the cistern back up-and-running.

If none of the above three items are true for your tank, then it is most likely going to be less expensive to fill in your existing cistern and replace it with a new tank. However, if the cistern does not have much debris in it, then #1 , the most labor-intensive process can be crossed off the list (whew!).

If you can see inside the tank, then the next thing to check is whether or not downspouts are still running into it. The easiest way to do this is to simply bring a garden hose to the downspout that is closest to your cistern, and, if the downspout runs into a pipe that leads underground, run the water and let it drain straight into that pipe. Let it run for a few minutes, then go to the cistern and listen for incoming water. If you hear water, then #2 you’re good to go. If nothing, then try another downspout. If nothing again, chances are good that your downspout drains no longer tie into your cistern, in which case new drainage will have to be run.

If you do have water draining in, then the third and final thing to check is whether the tank is holding water. To do this, fill the tank to a visible water level. Measure, then measure again, and write down the confirmed measurement. Wait a day and take a new measurement. If the two measurements are the same, #3 , you're in luck again! If they are not, then your tank walls need to be re-sealed or lined. Cleaning and re-sealing or lining your cistern is a somewhat DIY-friendly project (see video: “ How to stop a cistern water tank from leaking the RIGHT WAY! ”). We use Masterseal 581 in gray and white for this purpose, and offer it on our website for local pickup only.

Once the tank is sealed and the downspouts are draining to it, the last step will be establishing a way to draw the water out of the tank. Typically, our customers use electric pumps for this. Please see the line of electric pumps that we carry to help you with your project.

Summary

In conclusion, discovering an old cistern on your property opens up a range of possibilities. Restoring it involves checking for debris, ensuring downspouts are connected, and confirming the tank is watertight. If restoration is viable, sealing the tank and setting up a water extraction method will bring your cistern back to life. However, if these conditions aren't met, replacing the cistern might be the best option. For further assistance and the right products to make your restoration project easier and more cost-effective, feel free to contact us. Thanks for reading!

Note: We do offer cistern cleaning and sealing services within a 120 mile radius of our office in Yellow Springs, Ohio. If you'd like us to do this for you, please fill out this detailed form . We are often dealing with somewhat of a backlog on service projects, please be patient with us it may take 2-3 months to get to your project, so if you need this service, book it now. Thank you!

Products mentioned in this article

Springer Series Traditional Pump Kit (115V or 230V)

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Springer-Series-Traditional-Pump-Kit-115V-or-230V-p461777892

MasterSeal 581 - 50 LB Bag

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/MasterSeal-581-50-LB-Bag-p645349052

How to Determine Your Rainwater Harvesting Tank Size

Mon, 01 Jul 2024 13:53:28 GMT

Are you considering supplying your entire house with rainwater? Properly sizing your rainwater harvesting tank is crucial for meeting your water needs efficiently. This guide will walk you through the key considerations and recommendations for determining the right tank size for your household based on average annual precipitation, monthly rainfall variation, and water usage.

Key Considerations:

Average Annual Precipitation: This guide is tailored for areas with an average annual precipitation of 36 inches, evenly distributed throughout the year. This includes states like Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky, West Virginia, Western Pennsylvania, Illinois, and much of the Midwest.
Monthly Rainfall Variation: If your area's monthly rainfall varies significantly, calculate your tank size by multiplying your roof's square footage by 0.6, then by the highest monthly precipitation. For example, if May is the wettest month with 2.5 inches of rain, multiply by 2.5.
Water Use: This guide assumes minimal irrigation use (e.g., occasional vegetable garden or house plants). If you plan to irrigate a lawn, you will need a significantly larger tank.

Sizing Recommendations:

Cabins with Occasional Use :

Plastic Cistern: 1200-1700 gallons
Concrete Cistern: 1000-2500 gallons
Note: Ohio regulations require a minimum capacity of 2500 gallons for all rain cistern systems supplying a building/residence.

1-2 Person Household :

Capacity: 2500-3000 gallons

3-5 Person Household :

Capacity: 5500 gallons

6+ Person Household :

Capacity: 8000-11000 gallons
For most households, an 11000-gallon system is the maximum practical size unless you have several outbuildings or a very large house, assuming a Midwest U.S. climate.

Takeaway:

Determining the correct size for your rainwater harvesting tank involves considering your area's average annual precipitation, monthly rainfall variation, and your household's water usage. By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your rainwater harvesting system is appropriately sized to meet your needs, whether you have a small cabin or a large household. Proper planning and sizing will help you make the most of your rainwater harvesting efforts.

Water Storage Systems: A Solution for Low Yield Wells

info@rainbrothers.com (Rain Brothers) — Tue, 25 Jun 2024 16:45:05 GMT

If you're struggling with a water well that doesn't produce enough water, this post is for you. We'll guide you through the process of installing a low-producing well reservoir tank to ensure a consistent water supply for your home. By the end of this guide, you'll understand the necessary steps to transform your low-yield well into a reliable source of water.

Introduction

Hi, Jonathan from Rain Brothers here. Today, we're addressing a common issue: low-yield water wells. Specifically, we'll walk you through installing a reservoir tank in a basement to manage a well that only produces 20 gallons at a time before cutting off. This method involves pumping water into a reservoir tank and drawing from it, rather than directly from the well. Let's dive into the details.

Choosing the Right Tank

The first step in solving your low-yield well problem is selecting the appropriate tank. We're using Norwesco's 500 gallon freestanding potable water tank , which is designed with a narrow profile to fit through doorways, making it perfect for basement installations. We offer these tanks at great prices.

Setting Up the Tank

After placing the tank, locate the well water line entering your house, ideally near your reservoir tank. In our example, the line was conveniently located right next to the tank.

Shut Off Power and Drain Water : Turn off the well pump's power and drain all water pressure from the system.
Cut and Redirect the Piping : Cut a section of the piping to redirect water from the well into the top of the tank.

Installing the Pump

Inside the reservoir tank, install the Springer Series traditional pump.

Plumbing : Connect the plumbing from the tank to the house's existing water supply line, where the old well pump was connected.
Using Existing Pressure Tank : Repurpose the existing pressure tank. It will now work with the reservoir pump to supply water to the house.

Handling Electrical Connections

Electrical wiring is crucial for smooth system operation.

Interrupt and Redirect : Redirect the wire from the pressure switch to the Little Fuse Pump Saver.
Pump Saver : This device monitors the pump's load to detect if there is water in the well. If it detects air, it shuts down the pump to prevent damage.

Safety Measures

Implement additional safety measures to prevent flooding and ensure system reliability.

Float Switches : Install a normally closed float switch inside the reservoir tank to shut off the pump when the tank is full.
Overflow System : In this instance, since there was no drain in the basement, we ran an overflow pipe into a five-gallon bucket with a WaterPro Well Stop Water Detection Sensor with two metal probes. If the tank overflows, the probes activate and shut off the well pump.

Final Checks and Troubleshooting

After installation, verify that everything is functioning correctly.

Pump Saver Interval : Set the Pump Saver interval to 160 minutes to prevent the pump from running dry.
Float Switch Operation : Ensure the float switch works properly by visually inspecting it. Shaking it can help if it gets stuck.
Overflow Device : Check the overflow bucket for moisture to confirm it will shut off the well pump if necessary.
Household Supply : Ensure the Springer Series traditional pump provides sufficient water to the house. Adjust the float switch if needed.

Products and Services

Thank you for following along. We hope this guide helps you manage your low-yield water well effectively. Call us at (937) 949-1100 or email us at catchingtherain@gmail.com to get a freight quote on a 500 Gallon Freestanding Potable Water Tank . If it makes sense, we'll prepare an estimate for you for everything you need including our Reservoir Tank System for Low-Producing Well .

Summary

In summary, managing a low-yield water well involves installing a reservoir tank to store water, redirecting plumbing, installing a new pump, handling electrical connections, and implementing safety measures. Following these steps will ensure a consistent water supply for your household. Visit our website for all the necessary components and further assistance. By implementing this solution for low yield, low producing wells, you can ensure a steady and reliable water supply for your home.

Note: This post was created using information found in the YouTube video " How to fix a low-yield water well ."

Plumbing Rainwater Systems For Homes: What You Need To Know

Thu, 20 Jun 2024 14:12:53 GMT

Are you considering plumbing rainwater inside your home? It's a fantastic idea, but the legality can be complex. This tutorial will guide you through the legal landscape of using rainwater indoors, particularly if you have access to a public water supply. We will also explore the practicality and cost-effectiveness of such systems.

(Author's note: This article is an extension of a similar article we wrote last year entitled, " Is rainwater harvesting illegal ? ")

When considering plumbing rainwater systems for homes, whether it's to supply water for toilets, laundry, or outdoor use, there are a few key things you need to know:

Access to Public Water

If you're connected to a public water supply, incorporating rainwater into your home plumbing can be more complicated. The EPA prohibits homes from using both a municipal and a private water supply simultaneously, to prevent the risk of contamination. If your rainwater system isn’t properly installed, it could introduce bacteria into both your home and the municipal water system during a backflow event.

Working with Regulations

However, don't worry! Most local authorities will allow rainwater to be used for non-potable purposes (e.g., toilets, laundry, and outdoor irrigation) under certain conditions:

Backflow prevention : You'll need an approved backflow prevention device installed on your municipal water main to ensure rainwater doesn’t contaminate the public supply.
Separate plumbing : Rainwater must have its own plumbing lines to your non-potable fixtures. It can't be connected to any part of your municipal water system.
Water meter : If you're connected to a city sewer system, you may need a meter on your rainwater system to calculate how much water you're sending into the sewer.

By ensuring these elements are part of your system, you're more likely to gain approval from local water departments.

Cost-Effectiveness

While it’s possible to use rainwater inside your home, we often recommend against it if you already have public water access. The cost of retrofitting an existing home can be high, and in many cases, switching to low-flow, dual-flush toilets is a more practical and cost-effective way to conserve water. However, if you're building a new home, incorporating a rainwater system for non-potable uses is more feasible and won’t add significant costs to the project. For most homeowners, using rainwater for outdoor irrigation offers the best return on investment and is a great way to lower water bills.

Off-Grid or No Public Water Access?

If you don’t have access to a municipal water supply, your options for plumbing rainwater into your home increase significantly. In many areas, it’s entirely legal to use a rainwater harvesting system as your primary water source, especially in regions like Ohio, where cisterns are common.

Conclusion

Plumbing rainwater systems into your home is a great way to reduce water consumption, but it requires careful planning and adherence to local regulations. For existing homes with public water, it’s often more practical to use rainwater for non-potable purposes like irrigation. For homes without public water access, rainwater systems can be an excellent primary source of water. Be sure to consult with local experts and authorities to ensure your system is both compliant and efficient.

If you need help designing or installing a rainwater system, feel free to reach out! We're here to guide you every step of the way.

In summary, while plumbing rainwater inside your home is a great idea, navigating the legal landscape can be complex, especially if you have access to a public water supply. However, with proper planning and adherence to regulations, it is possible to use rainwater for non-potable purposes. If you don't have a municipal water supply, your chances improve significantly. Always consider the cost-effectiveness and practicality of such systems, and consult with local authorities to ensure compliance .

As always, thanks for reading.

How To Install A Littlefuse Pumpsaver On Your Low Yield Well

Sat, 21 Oct 2023 15:58:49 GMT

Protect Your Well Pump with Little Fuse PumpSaver

Having a well pump stop working can be a frustrating and costly issue, especially if your well occasionally runs dry. A highly effective solution to protect your well pump from damage due to low water levels is the Little Fuse PumpSaver. This blog post will guide you through understanding, installing, and utilizing this crucial device.

Introduction: Meet the Little Fuse PumpSaver

The Little Fuse PumpSaver is an essential device for anyone with a low-producing well. It ensures that your pump is protected from burning out, reducing the need for frequent replacements. Designed to handle situations where wells occasionally run dry, the PumpSaver acts as a safeguard, ensuring the longevity of your pump.

Understanding Your Pump Needs

Before purchasing and installing the PumpSaver, it is vital to understand your well pump's specifications. Here’s what you need to note:

Voltage: The PumpSaver is available in two models, 230 volt and 115 volt. Determine which model suits your existing pump setup.

Horsepower : Standard PumpSavers are designed for pumps up to a horse and a half. If your pump has larger requirements, contact the supplier for a suitable model.

Installation Guide: Easy and Straightforward

Wiring Basics : The wiring of the PumpSaver is simple. It features straightforward in-and-out connections similar to a pressure switch.

Gray Wire : Supply going to the pump.
Yellow Wire : Supply coming from the panel.
Connection: Bring line one in and line two in on one side, and then send load out L1 and L2 on the other.
Advanced Setups : If using a well reservoir system, consider integrating a float switch. Install this by interrupting the hot leg of your pump supply with the float switch.

Starting Up the PumpSaver

Check Water Levels: Ensure there's water in your well, as the PumpSaver requires this to read the pump's load.

Calibration : Upon wiring, initiate the system. The PumpSaver will enter calibration mode, which lasts just a few seconds.

Adjust Duration: Post-calibration, set the duration screw to 120-160 minutes. This duration indicates how long the pump stays off after the well runs dry before restarting.

Final Steps : Ensuring Optimal Performance

Once you've completed the setup and adjustments, replace the panel and secure it with a screw. The PumpSaver is versatile and can be installed anywhere along the wiring to the pump. It’s housed in a NEMA 3R rated box, making it weather-tight and suitable for outdoor installations.

Conclusion: Reliable Protection for Your Well Pump

The Little Fuse PumpSaver is an inexpensive yet invaluable asset for protecting your well pump from severe damage due to dry runs. Available at RainBrothers.com, it is an investment that prevents costly repairs and replacements. Remember to check out our website for more pump products and helpful resources.

Thank you for reading! Support us by liking and subscribing to our updates—it really helps keep our content flowing.

Pump Saver & Over Load Relay with NEMA 3R Enclosure Box (up to 1.5hp)

https://www.rainbrothers.com/store/Pump-Saver-&-Over-Load-Relay-with-NEMA-3R-Enclosure-Box-up-to-1-5hp-p281493518

Cistern Cleaning: How To and How Often

Tue, 17 Oct 2023 14:17:51 GMT

Cistern cleaning and maintenance

Whether you are collecting rainwater for your household water supply, or you are having water trucked in to fill your water tank , regular maintenance of your cistern tank is vital to your home's overall water quality. Below are recommendations we give our customers based on our years of field experience.

How often should I clean my cistern/water tank?

Before beginning to maintain your system, we need to ask, does it need to be cleaned/maintained? Our general rule of thumb is that a rain-fed, below-ground cistern should be cleaned once every 10 years. However, the frequency depends on the quality of the installation. If good quality roof washers were used -- like our Wisy Vortex filter or our Monjolin filters -- and if the cistern is well-sealed so that there is no potential for dirt/mud to seep in or rodents to get in, then you're looking at closer to 20 years between cleanings of your water tank. However, if the installation was not done well, and you have a source of mud/dirt getting in, or you have rodent activity inside your tank, then the cistern needs to be cleaned right away and the tank needs to be evaluated and properly sealed.

Also, if you are losing water and you suspect that your cistern is leaking, that is a great time to clean the tank and evaluate, as well as re-seal the cistern. For instructions on how to waterproof your water tank, check out our how-to video here: https://youtu.be/-oYkelS7t-M?si=O13FjduEmcfGWPkU

The important thing to keep in mind is that pre-filtration/roof washers are absolutely crucial for maintaining great water quality inside your tank. It is a lot easier to pre-filter the water and maintain those pre-filters than it is to clean the cistern. So if you don't have good pre-filtration, at least put in something basic to keep shingle grit/leaves/etc. out of your tank. We have many affordable pre-filtering options . To get your cistern system to where it needs to be, install the pre-filters, clean the cistern, and then return to the 10-year cleaning schedule.

What other steps are needed for cistern maintenance?

In addition to cleaning your water tank/cistern every 10 years, it is important to regularly disinfect the cistern. This can be accomplished one of two ways. Either:

1) Add a small amount of slow-dissolve, NSF-approved chlorine tablets to your cistern. We recommend adding a small handful (enough to cover your palm) every 3 months directly to your cistern. Please remember to wear gloves when handling chlorine pellets; or

2) Regularly use an ozone generator to pump O3 (aka Ozone) into your cistern. Ozone generators are extremely useful in creating excellent cistern water quality. Ozone, when injected into a water tank, will create an environment where bacteria cannot survive. Additionally, ozone helps clarify the water and clear up an odors. And for a maintenance dose on a cistern, an ozone generator only has to run 2-4 hours per week (assuming you have proper continuous disinfection filtration inside the home). Plus, ozone will naturally dissipate, so there is no harmful additive to your water supply! The only downside of ozone treatment is that it cannot be used for tanks that are in enclosed spaces, as ozone is harmful in large amounts when concentrated in indoor air. So installing an ozone generator must happen with outside tanks only. Additionally, ozone generators can only pump into 4' of water, so you have to suspend the airstone to ensure that the ozone generator is not pumping into more than 4' at any given time. We created this how-to video here to explain this process: https://youtu.be/3jeFbFvDwBo?si=lNDIP2ta13dAPFDg

How to clean your cistern/water tank

Once you've finally determined that your cistern needs to be cleaned, now it's time to get dirty! To clean a cistern, the following supplies are needed:

*A minimum of 2 people

*Flat, clean shovel

*Ladder

*Air exchange/ventilation fan

*Respirator with activated carbon filter

*Earplugs

*Gloves

*Protective eye wear

*Headlamp

*Large-capacity pump

*Small transfer/utility pump

*Buckets

*Rope with hook

*Wet/dry vacuum

*Pressure washer

*Unscented bleach

*Barrel

First, turn off power supply to your pump, and close the main valve in your house. This will ensure you do not lose prime in your pump as you drain down your tank.

Second, pump water from top of cistern into barrel. It's best to place barrel close to cistern, and a minimum of 50 gallons of storage is recommended. As water is filling barrel, pour in one quart of unscented bleach. This barrel will supply water to your pressure washer.

Third, begin pumping out the cistern. When possible, stir up the water inside the cistern to allow the pump to discharge some of the sedimentation.

Once the large-capacity pump can no longer pump anymore water, begin circulating fresh air into the cistern with the ventilation fan, and suit up with your respirator, gloves, safety glasses, and earplugs.

When safe to do so, enter the cistern and begin pressure washing the walls. We gravity-feed the barrel to the pressure washer. Be careful not to use too strong of a jet because sealant on concrete tanks can break off -- we don't want that to happen!

Use utility pump to evacuate as much of the remaining water as possible.

Shovel up any debris into buckets, and have your helper hoist them up.

Finish by using wet-vac to clean up remaining sludge/build up.

If this sounds too daunting and you're within 2 hours of our shop in Yellow Springs, Ohio, call us our text us at (937) 949-1100 , or fill out a service request form , and we'd be happy to provide a quote to clean your cistern for you!

Is It Illegal To Collect Rainwater? Here’s the Truth

Sun, 15 Oct 2023 14:20:10 GMT

If you've ever wondered, "Is collecting rainwater illegal?" you're not alone. Over the years, we've heard this question countless times in the rainwater harvesting business. Misinformation about the legality of collecting rainwater has spread far and wide, but we're here to clear up any confusion.

Is It Illegal To Collect Rainwater? Absolutely Not!

Contrary to what you may have seen on social media, rainwater harvesting is not illegal. In fact, many municipalities encourage it. Cities like Columbus and Cleveland, Ohio, offer rebates and grants to promote rainwater collection for managing stormwater and supporting sustainable practices. So, to answer the question, "Is collecting rainwater illegal?" — no, it's not. It's actually encouraged!

Where Did the Rumor Come From?

The misconception that collecting rainwater is illegal originates from a century-old Colorado law that restricted rainwater harvesting due to concerns over water rights. However, that law has since been overturned , and collecting rainwater is now legal across the country.

Rainwater Harvesting Regulations

While it's perfectly legal to collect rainwater, the process is regulated, which is important for public safety. Proper rainwater harvesting systems can provide safe, effective water management solutions, but they must adhere to regulations to ensure the safety of household and community water supplies.

Ohio’s Leadership in Rainwater Harvesting

Lastly, a fun fact: In our home state of Ohio, there are more rainwater cisterns per capita than any other state in the country. Between the firelands of NW Ohio, the Appalachian foothills that blanket our state, and the prevalence of mining, often times rainwater collection is the only viable option for rural households to obtain clean, fresh drinking water. And all of these systems are regulated through the Ohio Health Department ( click here to view ODH regulations).

Conclusion: Is It Illegal To Collect Rainwater?

So, is collecting rainwater illegal? The answer is a resounding no. Not only is it legal, but it’s also encouraged and regulated to ensure safety. If you have any questions or need assistance with rainwater harvesting systems, we're here to help you get started with the right products and design .

Thanks for reading, and, as always, please contact us with questions, as well as to help get you set up with all the right products and designs to safely install a great rainwater harvesting system .

#rainwater #rainwaterharvesting #cistern #illegal #rainbarrel

Troubleshooting and Starting Your Submersible Cistern Pump

info@rainbrothers.com (Rain Brothers) — Fri, 21 Jan 2022 21:55:51 GMT

Procedure to Start up Your Pump

In this video, we review the step-by-step process to troubleshooting your submersible cistern or well pump.

Introduction

Starting a new submersible cistern pump can seem daunting, but with the right steps, you can troubleshoot any potential issues and ensure efficient operation. This guide provides a step-by-step process for troubleshooting and starting up your Franklin C1 or Springer Series cistern pump.

Step 1: Initial Preparations

Before powering up, remove the cover from the pressure switch. This device controls the pump's operation based on water pressure. It disconnects the circuit at high pressure (usually 60 psi) and reconnects at a lower pressure (around 40 psi).

Step 2: Purge the Air

To avoid airlock, open the boiler drain valve to release any trapped air in the plumbing system. This is especially important for new setups.

Step 3: Energize the Circuit

Activate the dedicated power circuit for the pump. Ensure the pump is not connected to GFCI-protected circuits due to the location in the water tank. Confirm compliance with local electrical codes.

Step 4: Check Power Supply and Connections

If the pump doesn’t start, use a multimeter to check for around 115 volts (+/- 10%) at both the circuit and pressure switch. If the voltage is correct, the issue may be elsewhere.

Step 5: Inspect External Components

Examine the junction box connected to the cistern, as settling can disrupt wire connections. Ensure secure wiring and check voltage continuity between the house and cistern.

Step 6: Verify Pump Submersion and Connections

Ensure the intake screen is submerged in water and connected directly to the hose, without a check valve obstructing the flow.

Step 7: Monitor the Float Switch

Check that the float switch is in the correct position (pointing upwards) to allow power to reach the pump. If the switch is down, it may prevent the pump from operating during low water levels.

Step 8: Clear Airlocks

If an airlock persists, use the pitless adapter tool to adjust the pump position. Make sure the pump remains submerged before restoring power. Watch for water flow to confirm the airlock is cleared.

Step 9: Perform a Final Pressure Test

After purging the system, conduct a pressure test inside the house. Open the valve to release air, monitor the pressure gauge, and ensure the pump shuts off at 60 psi.

Step 10: Check for Leaks

Turn off the power and close the isolation valve. Watch the pressure gauge for any drops, which could indicate leaks in the system.

By following these steps, you can effectively troubleshoot and start your submersible cistern pump, ensuring reliable operation and water supply. Keep monitoring the pressure gauge and checking connections for optimal performance.

How to Seal an Underground Water Cistern

info@rainbrothers.com (Rain Brothers) — Fri, 21 Jan 2022 21:54:48 GMT

A Step-by-Step Guide to Sealing an Underground Water Cistern

Have you discovered a leak in your cistern? We have developed a video (above) and written tutorial for sealing up a concrete or brick cistern providing a cost-effective alternative to installing a liner. This is a minimum 2-day process.

1) The first thing you want to do is clean out the cistern . You’ll need some large capacity pumps. For a larger cistern, say 24,000 gallons, we usually use a 3” gas powered trash pump. But for this work you can use a 2” submersible pump to pump out the water.

2) Set aside rainwater supply . Pump a portion of the cistern water to fill a 50 gal drum or barrel to set aside some rainwater to be used as a water supply for the rest of the project. We will use this water supply to mix with the MasterSeal product and for the pressure washer. It is important to note that to avoid creating a toxic gas, we set aside this rainwater because we do not want to have any chlorine residue in contact with the cistern or used to mix with the waterproofing cement. The waterproofing cement has an additive that contains ammonia and mixing ammonia with chlorine produces a toxic gas.

3) Finish pumping out the tank .

4) Lightly pressure wash cistern walls . Using rainwater from the 50 gallon drum feeding to your pressure washer, lightly pressure wash the walls of your cistern.

5) Remove bottom sludge . Use a wet vac to suck up all the sludge and then shovel out any remaining muck in the system.

6) Mixing the MasterSeal 581 . MasterSeal 581 is an NSF certified product for potable water systems, so it is safe for drinking water after it cures. Mix the waterproofing cement with the chlorine free rainwater from our 50 gallon drum or barrel. We want to mix about 3 parts water to one part MasterEmaco A 660 . This is our binding agent for the MasterSeal 581 that makes sure it will adhere well to the cistern wall. Once the binding agent is prepared, add white MasterSeal 581 until it’s a paint like consistency using a slow speed drill and mixing paddle. Full detailed instructions are provided on the manufacturer’s website.

7) Apply first coat of MasterSeal 581 . Day one we do a very light coat of the MasterSeal 581. We prefer to use a white MasterSeal 581; a white powder which applies white. Apply it using a deck brush. Apply the first coat on the wall very thin, just like paint. Make broad brush strokes using circular motions to get it into the concrete. Once you do that you will have a very good surface for the next coat to bind to.

8) Apply second coat of MasterSeal 581 . Day 2, after the first coat has cured, come back and add a gray MasterSeal 581 to make it contrast to the white so you know that you are getting full coverage. The gray coat should be a little thicker than paint. Spot check to make sure you have full coverage. Wait 24 hours. Make sure to shop vac once you’re done to make sure all remaining water is gone.

It’s very important to not only have a respirator on while you’re in the cistern but also to have a fresh air intake fan to have a constant supply of fresh air into the cistern.

Our service area is approximately 120 miles surrounding Yellow Springs, Ohio. If you need help Sealing an Underground Cistern, please call or text us at (937) 949-1100 , or fill out our request form .

Should I use a rain harvesting system to irrigate my lawn?

Wed, 17 Feb 2021 22:28:22 GMT

Back when our company was first formed, we installed a lot of rain cisterns that were used to irrigate lawns/turf. The experience, though, left us questioning the practice.

On the one hand, rainwater is extremely beneficial for irrigation, and plants and grass respond well to it (especially in comparison to say, municipal water, which is chlorinated, or well water, which is generally iron-heavy and hard). And, on the surface, it looks as if rainwater harvesting for lawn irrigation would be the "green" thing to do.

However, if we peel back the layers a bit, I believe we are asking the wrong questions when we're talking about "green" ways of watering lawn. I would offer that the first question should be, "Can I install a lawn that doesn't need to be watered?"

Lawn irrigation uses a lot of water. If you irrigate to recommended amounts, then you want to add at least 1" of precipitation to your lawn per week. 1" of water on an acre of grass equates to 27,000 gallons! PER WEEK! Even the largest of residential roofs cannot collect that much water, which means that a rainwater harvesting cistern will only be able to supplement irrigation water usage. For this reason, we encourage our customers to explore low-maintenance grass seed -- Pearl's Premium being one example -- that require little to no irrigation. Even if you have to re-seed your lawn, doing so is a lot less expensive than putting in a large underground cistern to meet watering needs. With a lower maintenance lawn in place, rainwater harvesting then becomes much more feasible for lawn irrigation, allowing the customer to downsize their harvesting capacity while quickening their Return On Investment by potentially eliminating the need for municipal water back-up.

Should we, then, use rainwater harvesting systems to irrigate our lawns? I believe we should, but only after re-examining the lawn itself.

As always, thanks for reading!

Is rainwater safe to drink?

Tue, 16 Feb 2021 13:35:13 GMT

A common misconception about rain cisterns is that it's bad water. I've received countless calls over the years from folks who just bought a house that is supplied by a rain harvesting cistern who are worried sick about their new water supply. But is there cause for concern?

Let's deconstruct this fear a bit. If you're used to city or county water, then, most of the time, that means you're getting water that is coming from an open reservoir (though some are sourced from groundwater). While reservoirs are very protected, their feed springs/creeks/waterways aren't as highly guarded, which means that hydrocarbons from oil leaks in cars/trucks, litter, road salts, and any number of human-made pollutants can and do find their way into reservoirs. Additionally, you often have traces of pharmaceuticals found in our waterways, as well as the "forever chemicals" (aka PFAs) leftover from industrial pollution. And then there's micro-plastics and decaying organic material (including but not limited to fecal matter and dead animals). And this is all before the actual conveyance, at which time lead and other heavy metals leach in from antiquated piping.

While it's true that municipal water supplies are heavily regulated to protect the end user from some of these pollutants (most notably, bacteria), there is still a lot that doesn't get filtered out on a municipal level that must further be addressed on a house-by-house basis (side note: reverse osmosis is, in my professional opinion, the best way to add extra security for municipal water).

By comparison, groundwater supplies are equally susceptible to contamination. Not only do folks on wells have to guard against agricultural run-off and unsafe levels of various organic compounds, but a groundwater supply is only as good as those who draw from it. If you draw from the same aquifer as someone who does not maintain their well, or as someone who has abandoned their well without care or regard, or as an industrial/mining operation that introduces pollutants, your well suffers.

If we start by looking at the larger picture in regards to water security, it quickly becomes apparent that a localized, isolated water supply is the most ideal. And that's where rainwater harvesting comes in.

Is rainwater pure? Unfortunately, no -- not in our industrial age. While rain is the result of solar distillation (which naturally sheds pollutants and contaminants), falling rain picks dust and contaminants back up, both from the air and, occasionally, from the roof. However, the concentration of said contaminants is often very low -- especially compared to an open reservoir -- and a properly designed rainwater filtration system can eliminate any water quality concerns and can produce some of the purest water available. ( See also our article on filtering rainwater for drinking .) But while straight, unfiltered rainwater may not be pure and potable as is, what one gains by using rain as their water supply is a reduction of risk: You aren't tying your water supply in with those around you and entrusting them to care for the water as much as you do; you aren't susceptible to PFAs and forever chemicals; you aren't getting pharmaceutical traces in your water; you're not running your water through out-dated underground lead piping (at least, hopefully you're cistern supply line is not lead).

Moreover, rainwater filtration is predictable. The same rain filtration system can be put in in Kentucky as in Kenya. With groundwater/wells, this couldn't be further from the truth, and groundwater filtration is completely reliant on a detailed water test, often times meaning that your neighbor might not even need the same treatment/filtration as you.

At the start of this article, I mentioned the number of calls we get from people concerned about their new home having a cistern. I would be remiss if I did not also mention that many of those same people call back months later to say how glad they are that they have a cistern for their water supply. One customer, in particular, was not only terrified of the prospect of using a cistern for his water (and called me at least three times before moving in to ask questions), but, after having lived in the house for three years, told me that he was going to have a cistern installed at any future home he lived in if he ever had to move.

Not only are rain cisterns viable, but also, given the many environmental factors at play in our world today, they may indeed prove to be the wise water choice.

How to find a leak in your rain cistern

Mon, 15 Feb 2021 14:43:33 GMT

Have an old cistern? Suspecting that it may be leaking somewhere? While there are no easy methods to finding leaks, here are some tricks we've learned over the years:

1) Start by ensuring that the leak is coming from the cistern and not, say, your plumbing or an underground water line. First, if you have a pressure gauge inside your house on your pressure tank, watch it. Without any water running inside your home, is your pressure gauge dropping? If so, that indicates that there's a leak in your water line. In order to narrow in on where the leak is coming from, close off your whole house shut-off valve (usually found directly after your pressure tank). This will isolate your system so that you're reading the pressure between your cistern and the shut-off valve. Is the pressure gauge still dropping? If so, your leak is between the cistern and the shut off valve (and, most likely, it is a leak in the water line inside your cistern... perhaps a faulty foot valve, if you're using a jet pump). If the pressure is not still dropping, then the leak is after(or downstream from) your shut off valve (most likely, you have a leaky toilet).

2) If your pressure gauge does not drop when you look at it, then, before you go to bed, shut off the power to your pump and take a measurement of your cistern water level. Try to be as exact as possible. Write down the measurement. Then, in the morning when you wake up, take a measurement again in your cistern and see if it dropped. If the measurement dropped, you likely have a leak in your cistern tank.

There are a few different ways to try to track down a leak. If you have a concrete tank, then chances are that you're due to coat the tank with a potable-grade waterproofing cement, like MasterSeal 581 (PLEASE take precautions when coating or parging the tank yourself to ensure proper ventilation and respiratory protection). But, you may be able to "patch" the cistern with hydraulic cement by tracing the leak one of three ways:

1) The waiting game: Don't use the water for several days and see where it stops dropping down. That would be the location of your leak.

2) Food coloring: Get inside the tank when it has water in it, and inject a brightly-colored food coloring via a syringe into the water along the perimeter of the tank. With a flashlight and a lotof patience, see if you can tell where the food coloring moves. If it sucks into a wall, that's an indication of a leak.

3) Pump down: My favorite method is to pump down the tank all the way and, while it's pumping down, get into the cistern. A lot of times (especially with cisterns made of concrete block), the leak points will send water back into the tank once you've pumped it out. In other words, you'll see a stream a water or a steadily running drip where you have compromises in your tank wall, because water that previously had been flowing out into the ground will now come back into the tank once you remove the water, since the empty void of the tank will now be the path of least resistance. This method works quite well, but the downside is that you have to drain out your precious water supply.

I hope this helps provide some guidance in what can be a frustrating and trying process. Remember that, when in doubt, re-coat/parge the tank or install a cistern liner!

Grundfos SBA Cistern Pump Review: A Buyer's Guide

Sun, 14 Feb 2021 14:44:59 GMT

For several years, we carried the Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW automatic cistern pump . We've used many different pumps made by Grundfos over the years, and they are known to make quality, innovative products, so we jumped at the opportunity to carry an easy-to-install, pressure-tank-free alternative to traditional pumping systems. However, we recently became troubled by the number of failures that were being reported from the SBA model, and have since decided to stop selling these units.

Automatic cistern pumps (i.e., pumps that do not require an external pressure switch to operate, or a large pressure tank) certainly have their place: We get thousands of requests per year from homeowners who are building cabins or have limited utility space and just can't spare 4-6 sq. ft. of floor space for a pressure tank. Also, when using a rain cistern or spring tank for irrigation, automatic pumps cut out the need for pump start relays.

In our experience, though, the Grundfos SBA is too much of a gamble in the realm of automatic pumps. While Grundfos has done a great job honoring warranties, the number of warranty claims that we submitted on the SBA model far exceeds any other product that we've ever carried. In fact, if we get more than a 3% failure rate within warranty periods, we will drop a product. Because the SBA was new to the US market as of a couple years ago, we decided to trust the Grundfos brand since they are an international company that has been making pumps for 50+ years. However, after about 18-22 months of use, we were seeing far too many pump failures. Additionally, in the last month, we had as much as 30% of these SBA pumps be defective right out of the box.

Mistakes in manufacturing happen. We get that. But, to add insult to injury, the staff of Grundfos has left us completely in the dark on why these failures were occurring, what was causing them, and what (if anything) they were doing to address and remedy these issues.

On the flip side, we have been carrying another brand of automatic cistern pump -- the Strom BSP -- for nearly as long as we've carried the Grundfos SBAs , and have seen less than 0.5% failure rate. As a result, we are urging customers who really need that automatic cistern pump for their application to consider the Strom BSP . Please note, though, that we almost exclusively recommend that customers go with the 3/4HP model... not the 1HP. The 3/4HP Strom BSP is ideal for residential water supply to a house/barn/etc. Customers should only use the 1HP model if they are planning on running irrigation systems with the pump with flow rates of over 15GPM @ 50PSI, or if you pumping uphill more than 80 ft. Also, it is recommended that a 2-gallon pressure tank be installed with the Strom BSP somewhere in your plumbing supply (ideally either in the cistern or immediately where the water supply line enters the house/structure from the cistern).

The Strom BSP comes with built-in run-dry protection, and an optional floating intake sleeve is available for the unit.

#Grundfos #pressuretank #waterpump #automaticpump #cisternpump #irrigation

PUMP BUYING GUIDE

Sat, 13 Feb 2021 14:46:22 GMT

We carry several high quality water pumps that can be used in a variety of applications. Check out our guide to determine which pump will best suit your needs.

IF YOU HAVE AN UNDERGROUND WATER TANK, AND YOU…

Have a cabin, mobile home, tiny home, or building with limited or no indoor utility space: Strom BSP (3/4HP)

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel at least 5 gallons per minute, or GPM, (but not more than 8 GPM) at ~ 50 PSI: Strom BSP (3/4HP) , Franklin C1 with pressure tank

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel between 8-14 GPM at ~ 50 PSI: Strom BSP (3/4HP)

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel between 12-17 GPM at ~50PSI: Strom BSP (1HP)

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel less than 5GPM at less than 50PSI (for instance, small scale drip irrigation): Franklin C1 with minimum 20-gallon pressure tank , Strom BSP 3/4HP WITH relief line feeding back to tank (ask us for drawing that illustrates this)

Want to supply a house or building with pressurized water, and the home/building has at least 4 sq ft of floor space in a utility room: Franklin C1 with 20-gallon pressure tank

Have an existing cistern with a water line to the tank but no power supply at the tank: Franklin VersaJet 3/4HP Jet Pump with pressure tank

If energy efficiency is a concern (i.e., if you are in an off-grid home): Franklin C1 with the largest pressure tank you can afford (usually best to source the larger pressure tanks locally to save on freight but we do carry tanks up to 119-gallons in capacity)

IF YOU HAVE AN ABOVE-GROUND WATER TANK, AND YOU…

Have a cabin, mobile home, tiny home, or building with limited or no indoor utility space: Strom BSP (3/4HP) . PLEASE NOTE: Winterization of pumps will be required if you live in an area where temps get below freezing.

Want to supply a house or building with pressurized water, and the home/building has at least 4 sq ft of floor space in a utility room: Franklin C1 with 20-gallon pressure tank , Franklin VersaJet 3/4HP pump with pressure tank . PLEASE NOTE: Winterization of pumps will be required if you live in an area where temps get below freezing.

#waterpump #cisternpump #jetpump #Grundfos #tinyhome #rainwaterharvesting #pressuretank

Why rain bladder tanks/pillows are a really bad idea

Fri, 12 Feb 2021 14:47:22 GMT

Considering a bladder tank for your rainwater harvesting project?

May I suggest going back to the drawing board?

Yes, you've probably seen them advertised as the perfect option for harvesting rainwater underneath your deck or in that unused crawl space. What better way to implement a cost-effective rainwater harvesting solution!

But rain bladders (or "rain pillows" as they're sometimes known as) are fraught with issues. And, here, I'm speaking as a professional rainwater system installer with well over a decade of field experience who has tried -- and failed -- at capturing rainwater in bladders. Here are my concerns with this type of system:

1) Flexibility. They are flexible. And, in being flexible, they are unpredictable. They shift, they expand, and they move. Three things that you don't want in a water storage scenario. And because they move, you have to map out all the ways in which they can move as you're planning your install. No thanks.

2) Expandability. If you press the supplier of your rain bladder, they'll likely be forced to admit that the fabric that is used to retain the water (which, by the way, is undoubtedly quality fabric!) is one that cannot stop expanding. If more water comes, the bladder will get bigger. And bigger. And bigger. And while it may have to get extremely large before it ever reaches a tear point, the problem with the expansion is not in the fabric -- it's in the surrounding structure(s). For instance, if it's in a crawl space, an ever-expanding bladder can serve as a hydraulic lift on the floor joists above. Same is true with a deck. Bad idea.

3) Do you need a third reason at this point? Ok, I'll keep going. Bladders cannot be cleaned. This means that your pre-filtration has to be extremely refined, which is difficult to accomplish if you want to harvest large quantities of water. In my experience, you want a rain catchment system that is cleanable to ensure that you have great water quality.

4) Still here, eh? Alright, I got another for you... Bladders are difficult to plumb. Because they flex and move and shift and expand, running a plumbing connection to them (either from your downspouts or to a pump) is difficult to accomplish. You have to really know your way around plumbing fittings and different types of pipe to be able to plan for flexibility while ensuring water-tight connection points. And if you don't plan well, then you've got all your drainage going to exactly the spot where you won't want it -- inside your house (if you're looking to install in a crawl space) or under your deck. And you probably won't know there's an issue with your plumbing connection until you're three inches into a heavy rain event.

5) Good luck pumping from them. You have two options when it comes to pumping: submersible or external. Submersible pumps are not an option for rain bladders because there's isn't enough height, and you run the risk of burning a hole in the fabric. So that leaves an external pump, such as a jet pump. In order for a jet pump to work, the water from the bladder has to gravity drain into a check valve and then into the pump (you can't install a foot valve in a bladder so gravity draining is the only option). In order for the water to gravity drain to your suction end of a jet pump, the pipe has to leave the bladder at the bottom of the bladder. However, putting a pipe on the bottom of a bladder can create the opportunity for the weight of the water inside the bladder to shift onto that pipe, thus crushing it or breaking it. So then you're option is to put it on the side of the bladder toward the bottom. But because bladder tanks don't get very tall (unless they overfill), it is difficult to get the water inside the bladder to drain toward the pump, so much of the bladder will prove to be unusable.

In all my years putting in rain systems, I installed exactly three bladder systems. I am a careful planner and really wanted the idea to work. One never worked (and not for lack of trying on my end). One worked well, but for a short period (but this one was installed outdoors and not under any deck, so movement/shifting/drainage was not a concern). And the third required constant vigilance and innumerable sleepless nights on my end (not to mention a ton of creative engineering) in order to work, and, even that one proved to be too much work for so little pay-off.

Being a contractor in an uncommon field like rainwater harvesting means that I have had to learn a lot of lessons on my own. And I made a lot of mistakes early on and had to pay for every one of them.

Rainwater harvesting into bladders is one mistake I will never make again.

How to install a cistern

Wed, 10 Feb 2021 14:49:58 GMT

Installing an underground cistern is trickier than it looks. Once you start digging underground, all sorts of surprises can pop up, and many things have to be accounted for in order to dig for and install a successful underground water cistern system .

We've set a lot of underground tanks in our years of business, and recently we decided to make a detailed video to illustrate the installation process. In the video below, we go over the steps for installing a successful concrete cistern . We hope you find this helpful, and if you like our tutorials and you're wanting to start your own cistern project, please consider supporting us by purchasing your supplies from our online store -- we carry only the highest quality products at the lowest prices.

Franklin C1 Cistern Pump: FAQs

Tue, 09 Feb 2021 14:51:14 GMT

In all our years working in the field installing rain cistern systems, we've had great success and great failures with cistern pumps. These days, we stick to two basic pump models for installs: the Franklin C1 10GPM submersible pump , and the Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW submersible pump . Here, we'll review the former, and answer some frequently asked questions.

COST

First of all, a caution: We get a lot of people wanting to order a Franklin C1 pump from us, but they point out that our price is higher than other prices they find online. While we are always happy to price match , we also ask our customers to look carefully at what is being sold elsewhere. If you compare, you'll see that we sell the 10 gallon per minute pump, whereas other places sell the 20 gallon per minute pump. Believe it or not, there is an important difference between the two. The 20 gallon per minute version of the Franklin C1 is designed to handle effluent in large volumes. Basically, it's a sump pump, and if you look at the pump performance curve, you'll see that that pump does not generate high head, meaning that it won't build up pressure. If you tried to hook up the 20GPM pump to feed your household, you'll only be able to generate 30PSI inside your home.

Compare that to the 10GPM version that we sell. With the 10 GPM version, you're getting a pump with lower flow (and, by the way, most household use is at 6GPM or less) but much higher pressure performance, so you can easily get 60-70 PSI inside your home at 6-10GPM. The reason that our 10GPM version costs a bit more is that it generates higher pressure.

INSTALLATION

The second most common question we get with the Franklin C1 Pump is regarding its benefits. Specifically, why would someone install this pump over, say, a standard submersible well pump? The reason for this is simple: In using a standard submersible well pump, the installer needs to encase the pump inside a 4-6" PVC sleeve to mimic the pump being in a well casing. Well pumps are designed to be housed in a well casing where the dynamics of the pump pull the water around the outside to cool the motor as it turns. If installed directly into a cistern, the water would not be pulled around the motor to keep it cool. Therefore, the pump needs to be encased in what's called a " cooling sleeve ." Without this, the pump's life will drastically shorten. Additionally, the intake on well pumps is generally half-way up the pump. Placed in a cistern, you'll lose the bottom 1-2' of water with the intake being up so high. If you install the pump horizontally to remedy the intake height issue, pump manufacturers often say that doing so will create uneven wear on the motor bearings, which will, again, shorten the life of the pump.

The C1 pump , in contrast, does not need to be installed inside a cooling sleeve, thus shortening install time and saving on the added costs of building a casing for your cistern. Additionally, the intake on the C1 pump is at the bottom of the motor, so you get more useable capacity out of your cistern than you would with a standard well pump.

How much does a rain cistern system cost to install?

Mon, 08 Feb 2021 14:52:39 GMT

Ah, yes. The question on everyone's mind: How much does a rain cistern system cost to install?

As you can imagine, the answer to that varies quite a lot. Many variables affect the end cost, some of which include:

1) Number of downspouts being picked up for harvesting

2) Dimensions of perimeter of house (which generally tells us how much pipe and trenching will be required to run drainage from downspouts to cistern)

3) Availability and price of gravel/stone (for bedding pipe, roof washer, and cistern, and for backfilling)

4) Whether extra dirt from excavation can be kept on site and spread or if it needs to be trucked away (there's a lot of extra dirt from cistern installations)

5) Is bedrock present underground? If so, how deep until bedrock is hit? In other words, can we safely dig down, say, 10 feet to set a 5500-gallon cistern without needing, oh I don't know, dynamite?

6) State regulations. Ohio is about the only state in the Midwest that has regulations on cisterns for drinking water , and they are very detailed. In Ohio , you must use a minimum 2500-gallon tank , you must have one roof washer filter per 1500 sq ft of roof space, you must use NSF Class A UV Sterilizers for continuous disinfection, etc. While these regulations are excellent standards that will leave great water quality results, the pricing does add up quickly... so a drinking water system installed in, say, Kentucky or Indiana will not be as expensive as one installed in Ohio, even though the end result will produce the same quality of water. Frustrating, I know, but think about it this way: With regulations in place, theoretically all of Ohio's cisterns produce great water quality. In Kentucky where the regulations don't exist, that is not the case.

7) Desired water pressure and flow rate inside the home

8) Desired maintenance schedule. We have components that are more cost effective but require more maintenance, and we have components that are more expensive but require less maintenance.

Because there are so many variables, it is truly difficult to answer the question, "How much would an installation cost" without first gleaning information about the project and getting answers to each of these questions. However, we can provide average costs for budgeting purposes.

Our most common installation is of a 5500-gallon underground precast concrete cistern used for whole house supply (including drinking water). Our scope of work for that generally includes:

*Pulling permit (if applicable)

*Excavating for the cistern

*Importing around 20 tons of gravel/stone

*Bedding the bottom of the cistern pit with gravel/stone and then leveling gravel/stone

*Setting 5500-gallon concrete cistern (dimensions of tank are 15' L x 8.5'W x 8'H, and dimensions of pit are usually 17'L x 10.5'W x 10'H)

*Vacuum testing the cistern to ensure it is air-tight (and, therefore, water tight)

*Excavating for drainage

*Installing schedule 40 (heavy-duty) drainage pipe from the bottom of each downspout to a pre-filtering roof washer, then to the cistern, then to an overflow

*Installing a pre-cistern roofwasher filter

*Installing a rodent/mosquito guard on the overflow

*Installing a water line from the cistern to the house

*Core drilling through a basement wall to run water line

*Installing submersible pump inside cistern

*Installing tank gauge on top of cistern

*Installing pump controls inside house (power supply from electrical panel to pressure tank must be provided by licensed electrician and is not in our scope of work)

*Installing two-stage sediment reduction filtration , down to 5 micron

*Installing UV sterilization unit (at 40mJ/cm2 dosage @ 10GPM) with isolation valves

*Installing sample tap (if applicable)

*Obtaining inspection (if applicable)

*Backfilling and grading

For a turn-key system like that, it takes our crew of 2-3 people an average of 3 days to install, and usually those are long days (7AM-7PM, at times). Average cost of a system of this size is between $17,000-$21,000. Generally, a rain cistern system costs more to install than it does to drill a well, though there are inherent risks with well drilling that aren't there with rain cisterns. In fact, we've had several customers who tried drilling at least once but sometimes up to three times on their property to see if they could hit water, only to find that no water was present, and then wound up putting in a cistern.

Sometimes we hear from our customers that they get "sticker shock" when they see that price range. And we agree, it's a lot of money, and we try our best to keep our prices down as much as possible while installing a quality system. But if there's a contractor who tells you they can do it for less, chances are very good that: 1) They've never done a rain cistern install before; 2) They are using cheap products that will not last (usually, the place where they skimp the most is in the most important piece... the tank itself!); and 3) You'll be calling us a few months after they get "done."

Please also remember that we are here to help if you decide to install your own cistern . If you purchase products from us, we will guide you through every aspect of the install. We are always committed to helping design a system around someone's budget, so please contact us to see how we can help.

Underground Concrete Cisterns: Pros and Cons

Sat, 06 Feb 2021 14:54:49 GMT

We have installed a lot of underground water tanks over the years. You name it, we've installed it. Some systems we like, and others... well...

We try to be as objective as possible with all of our assessments of rain systems and system components. In the interest of full disclosure, I will say that we sell our own line of precast concrete tanks. But we don't hype up concrete tanks to try to make a sale. Quite the contrary, we sell concrete tanks because, when cast with high standards, they are hands down the best water storage option available. Don't believe us? Keep in mind that we also sell plastic underground cisterns, but we rarely recommend them even though they are more expensive per gallon. See our Plastic Tanks: Pros and Cons article here for more information.

In our experience, these are the pros and cons of precast concrete tanks .

ADVANTAGES:

*Long life. I can't tell you how many times we've cleaned out 50+ year-old concrete tanks, and they're still as good as new.

*Functional. Unlike plastic tanks, you can drive a mower across a concrete tank without concern

*Easily reparable. If the tank is cast correctly, you'll never have to replace it.

*Load bearing capabilities. Concrete tanks can be made to support traffic loads (i.e., can be put under driveways or parking lots)

*Improved water quality. I know this sounds far-fetched, but I swear it's true: concrete walls tend to neutralize rainwater’s acidity for a more balanced pH

*Inexpensive. Concrete systems are usually the least expensive option

*Accessible and cleanable. Unlike plastic tanks, concrete tanks can be pumped all the way dry for cleaning

*Recyclable. If necessary, concrete tanks can be broken up and brought to a recycling facility where the concrete can then be pulverized into fill material.

DISADVANTAGES:

*Heavy equipment needed for installation. I cannot stress this enough: You must have good access to your home site to be able to set a concrete tank

*Availability. Precast concrete cisterns are not widely available in the U.S., so make sure to go with a vendor that specializes in them (i.e., don’t just make a septic tank work for your application)

*Resource heavy. I would be remiss if I did not mention that concrete -- and, particularly, Portland cement (an ingredient in concrete) -- has a high carbon footprint.

*pH effect of new concrete. Generally should not drink water from the first three fill/empty cycles of a new concrete tank (new concrete will elevate pH initially). After that, though, the water pH neutralizes quickly. For more information on this, see our article on Concrete Cistern pH

Underground Plastic Cisterns: Pros and Cons

Fri, 05 Feb 2021 14:55:55 GMT

Thinking about installing a plastic underground cistern for your property? Great -- you're in the right place.

We've installed a lot of underground cisterns over our years in business. Early on, we installed plastic tanks almost exclusively. They were easy for us to transport, and great for even the most remote of installations. And, since we are an authorized Norwesco distributor , we were able to use tanks that were manufactured just 30 miles away from our shop. We're suckers for locally-made products!

As we did more and more installs of plastic tanks, though, the glory days began to slowly drift away. From an installers point-of-view, I, personally, have grown to dislike plastic cisterns, and I think that if you talked to any excavation contractor or anyone who has installed at least a dozen underground tanks, they're going to say the same thing: Plastic tanks are not ideal, and an installer (in particular, someone who does not have experience with excavation or installation of underground systems) is much more likely to get a call-back to fix an issue with a plastic tank than they are with any other tank.

Do plastic tanks have their place? Absolutely! Do we still recommend them -- in certain applications, I recommend them exclusively... specifically if you have a remote home or cabin, if access is an issue, or if you need a small underground system. If you do install a plastic tank, make sure you follow the manufacturer's installation instructions to a tee. If you don't, it could end up costing you the tank, or worse. When in doubt, go with concrete cisterns .

Here's a list of advantages and disadvantages of plastic underground cisterns that we've developed from our field experience:

ADVANTAGES:

*If your site is remote or access is an issue, plastic cisterns are easily transportable and easy to install, even with small equipment

*Cost effective for small systems (i.e., less than 1,000 gallons)

*Ideal for cabin, mobile home, or tiny home applications where smaller systems are needed

DISADVANTAGES:

*Must take precautions to ensure tank does not float out of the ground before, during, and after installation (usually tanks must be left ¼ full at all times)

*Must backfill with approved fill (i.e., sand, crushed stone, or topsoil)

*Cannot drive anything over the top, including lawn tractors

*Cannot be made to hold traffic loads

*Not easily reparable

*Can warp over time

*Usually cannot be pumped all the way down to clean without risk of ground pressure cavitation

#newcistern #plasticcistern

How to irrigate with a rain barrel

Thu, 04 Feb 2021 15:00:48 GMT

Ever wondered how to keep your garden watered efficiently while using captured rain water? Setting up a low-pressure watering system (a soaker hose system ) is a great way! Below are some important tools you'll need and the steps you can take to ensure a well-functioning system.

Tools & Materials

Plastic or metal stakes
Soaker Hose - pre-measure the path of the hose where you are going to lay it.
Polytubing
Filter to keep particles from clogging your soaker hose (recommended is 200 mesh).
Water timer (can be installed later)
Y connector with shutoff, splitters, fittings

Lay Out the Hose in Your Garden Beds: Position soaker hoses throughout the garden near each plant within 6 to 12 inches of the base. On slopes, run across the slope, not up and down. In perennial beds, keep hoses about 18 inches (sandy soils) to 24 inches (clay soil) apart. For annual plants space the runs closer, 12-18 inches apart, to make sure water reaches their shallow roots. Stake the hose into place with stakes wherever it needs it to secure the hose's position.

Hide the Hose: A fter testing the soaker hose to see that it waters the area well, you can cover it with 2 inches (or more) of mulch, such as wood chips, bark, leaves, or compost, or even decorative rocks. The mulch keeps water from evaporating and helps spread the water flow. It also helps protect the hose from the sun. Have you ever felt the temperature of water that was just sitting in a hose out in the sun? It's hot! Can be used above or below ground. Soaker hose IS NOT for lawn areas.

Stakes: Use to secure soaker hose

Watering times: Start out by running your soaker hose for about 40 minutes once a week, or 20 minutes twice a week for sandy soils and annual plants and gardens that have shallower roots. The goal is to wet the soil in the plant's root zone. You can tell if the plant is getting enough water by digging a hole with a trowel to see if the root zone is wet (wait a while after watering before you check, so the water has time to soak in). Leaves may droop a little on hot days but if they stay droopy after the hottest part of the day, they're probably too dry. Drooping can also be a sign of over watering but again, check the soil first! Once you've got the timing figured out, attach and set a timer to the system. This will make it possible for the watering system to work even when you are on vacation.

Trees: Using a soaker hose encircle the tree with the hose beginning at the drip line. Add a circle of soaker hose every 2' inward from the drip line throughout the root zone. Try to water the soil areas directly beneath the foliage and shaded by the tree. Do not water beyond the drip-line and do not water closer than 3 feet to the trunk base on established trees.

Hanging planters, pots and window boxes: Large, hard to move barrels, pots and window boxes will do better with a slow running soaker hose. Water regularly as the dry season goes on. Hanging plants may require watering more frequently as the wind and sun dry them out. During exceptionally hot weather (80's or 90's) hanging baskets may need watering daily, or even twice daily if the basket has limited soil area.

Maintaining Your Soaker Hose System: Once or twice a year, unscrew the end caps and flush out any accumulated sediment. Flushing it at the start of the year will help you check for leaks, and ensure that it's not plugged. Make sure everyone working in the garden knows the soaker is there under the mulch, so they don't accidentally damage it. Most cuts or nicks can be repaired with couplings. Soaker Hose is UV stabilized - won't freeze in the cold or crack in the sun.

Checkout the design options below to create your ideal soaker hose system:

Center Design: Bringing the water in to the center will help with a more even water distribution. This design works well if your rows are rather long.
Constant Flow Design: This creates a constant flow of water, helping to provide a more even distribution of water. Use Tees on the corners, in place of the elbows, and put a cap on one end of the Tee, so you can remove the cap to blow your system out. This is a closed system .
Center Design 2: Coming into the center of your design will help achieve a more even distribution of water. You can use the female fittings or install the soaker hose directly into the tees.
Hill Design: Install soaker hose on a hill by laying your hose across the hill, rather than up and down the hill.
Easy Closed System: This system uses Female ends on both ends, screwed onto the tees for easy removal of the soaker hose, for tilling and winter storage. It is also a closed system.

Rain-Water Filtration

Wed, 03 Feb 2021 15:05:47 GMT

Ever wonder how to effectively filter your rainwater cistern for drinking? Trying to make an off-grid water supply and aren't sure where to start? Need a reliable and safe water supply for your tiny house or cabin ?

Below is a rain water filtration infographic. We hope you find it useful and a good starting point for designing the perfect water system for your application.

Cistern vs. Well

Tue, 02 Feb 2021 15:06:55 GMT

Building a new house or upgrading your water system? Wondering which direction to go with your water supply... rain cistern or well?

Our infographic may assist with weighing pros and cons of both. I come from a family of well drillers dating back to my great grandfather, but I elected to focus on rain collection systems because I believe that it is the water supply of the future and the only viable option for avoiding water crises.

Pump Protection: Low Pressure Cut-Off Pressure Switches

Mon, 01 Feb 2021 15:08:45 GMT

There are many benefits to adding a low pressure cut-off pressure switch to your cistern or well pump set-up. Low pressure cut-off pressure switches turn the pumps off if the water pressure dips below 15 psi.

In this video tutorial, we explain how these switches work, and the pros and cons in using them with your pump installation.

How To Protect Your Cistern Pump: Jet Pumps

Sun, 31 Jan 2021 15:10:17 GMT

Using a jet pump for your rain-water harvesting cistern system ? While there are many benefits to using a jet pump , there are also a few steps that should be taken to ensure you're not running the risk of burning up your pump motor, especially if/when your water tank runs dry.

In this video tutorial, we review a few different techniques for doing just that: Protecting your pump.

How To Wire A Pressure Switch

Sat, 30 Jan 2021 15:11:47 GMT

Here at Rain Brothers we get a lot of questions about how to wire a pressure switch for a water pump used in wells or cisterns. A pressure switch is the most common method of controlling a pump motor.

Check out our new video tutorial for a simple, concise explanation about wiring a pressure switch :

How to Clean a Cistern Tank

Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:17:41 GMT

In all our years of working on cisterns , we've seen, tried, and heard about many different ways of cleaning out a rain cistern or spring tank . Some ways are more, shall we say, "creative" than others, but only a handful have proven themselves to be effective and safe, which is exactly the metric we strive for in conducing our business.

Below is a link to a video tutorial we did that goes over our time-tested technique. Please note that you may need the following tools for cleaning out your own tank:

*Sterilized ladder (wash down with chlorine solution)

*Sterilized boots or hip wadders

*Sterilized pump (we prefer a 2" submersible trash pump, such as ones made by Gorman Rupp)

*Discharge hose for pump

*Food-safe, sterile drum or barrel

*Pressure washer

*Wet/Dry ShopVac

*Sterile flat shovel

*5-Gal Buckets

If you have a concrete cistern (especially if it's a concrete block cistern), you may want to also have concrete patch/Thoroseal/Hydraulic Cement on hand to make necessary repairs to the wall of the tank.

Here is the video. Hope it helps!

Roofwasher Pre-Cistern Filters: Which Filter is Right for Your Install?

Thu, 28 Jan 2021 15:15:56 GMT

There are several roofwasher options available for pre-filtering your rainwater before it enters your holding tank/cistern. Some options are better than others. Here, we have applied our field experience with each type and have rated them on a scale of 1-5 based on several metrics: Cost, Ease of Installation, Effectiveness, Aesthetics, Maintenance Requirements, and Limitations. As always, happy harvesting and we hope you find this guide beneficial!

Option A: First Flush Filter

Cost: 1 (This option is a real penny saver!)

Ease of Installation: 3 (Need to be somewhat handy to secure first flush unit to side of house/structure)

Effectiveness: 3 (When installed in conjunction with our Aluminum Downspout Debris Filters, this can be a very effective way of filtering water before it enters your rain tank. Must take care to size the first flush standpipe correctly, though. Please see our sizing guide on product page)

Aesthetics: 1 (This is the most visible pre-filter for a rain tank, and it can look pretty bulky once installed)

Maintenance: 4 (High maintenance. Needs to be checked frequently for clogging and to ensure standpipe drains effectively and downspout debris filter is clean. Also needs winterization in fall before cold weather strikes)

Limitations: 5 (Very limited use. You generally have to install a first flush filter on each downspout that you’re wanting to direct into your cistern)

Additional notes: Ohio customers must use either Wisy Vortex or other approved secondary means of pre-filtration for your cistern installation, per Ohio Health regulations .

Option B: Maelstrom Rainwater Filter

Cost: 3 (A bit pricey)

Ease of Installation: 3 (Need to be somewhat handy to install this filter)

Effectiveness: 4 (Very effective at keeping out debris and filtering water before it enters the cistern)

Aesthetics: 5 (Invisible from ground level since it is generally housed inside tank)

Maintenance: 4 (Must be checked regularly for clogging and must be cleaned on a regular basis — generally every week in rainy season)

Limitations: 3 (Very versatile. All downspouts can be directed into one filter, provided that you are not draining more than 2,200 sq ft of roof space into your cistern)

Additional notes: Not approved for Ohio customers when using rainwater indoors. Also, customer must decide whether to mount this inside a Filter Pit box (an extra expense) or inside tank (recommended)

Option C: Wisy Vortex Filter (WFF Series)

Cost: 5 (Expensive, but worth every penny!)

Ease of Installation: 4 (Need to mark your pipe elevations carefully during installation because you will have to drop your pipe once it hits the Wisy filter since the inlet on the filter and the outlet to the cistern on the filter are at different elevations. Helps to have a laser level on site when installing for underground applications… but then again a laser level is recommended for any underground pipe installation)

Effectiveness: 5 (Extremely effective at mitigating first flush of water and collecting and filtering incoming water from downspouts. You will be very pleased with this unit)

Aesthetics: 3.5 (Only visible part is a small round black riser and lid. It is recommended to keep the riser extended 8” above grade to prevent groundwater from seeping into your system when installing the filter below ground level)

Maintenance: 2 (Should be checked monthly to start, then cleaned quarterly once the system is established)

Limitations: 1 (Very few limitations with this filter unit. Larger sizes are available if you’re draining bigger roof areas. It performs better than any pre-filtering roofwasher on the market. It is difficult, though, to make this filter work if you live on a completely flat parcel of land. Ideally, you need some dip in elevation on your property to run the bottom drain on the filter out to daylight)

Additional notes: This filter is approved for use on Ohio Private Water System installations.

Option D: Wisy Linear100 Rainwater Filter (Available in Poly or Stainless Steel models)

Cost: 3 (In a metric of cost to effectiveness, this filter is by far the best deal, especially if you go with the poly model)

Ease of Installation: 2 (Installs easily. Just need to make sure your overflow port in your tank is set 2” lower than your inlet port)

Effectiveness: 5 (Extremely effective at mitigating first flush of water and collecting and filtering incoming water from downspouts. You will be very pleased with this unit)

Aesthetics: 5 (Invisible — housed in the cistern)

Maintenance: 2 (Should be checked monthly to start, then cleaned quarterly once the system is established)

Limitations: 1 (The only limitation is that you can only harvest up to 2100 sq ft of roof through this filter to maintain peak efficiency in converting incoming rainwater into harvested water)

Additional notes: This filter is not yet approved for use on Ohio Private Water System installations.

Best option for a cistern pump?

Wed, 27 Jan 2021 15:19:01 GMT

Cisterns come in many shapes, sizes, and even types, so it is no wonder there is no set answer to a question we often get -- "What cistern pump should I use? "

After years of field experience, working with (and in!) hauled water tanks, spring tanks, brick cisterns, concrete block cisterns, and pre-cast concrete cisterns, we have developed a questionnaire for our customers in helping to pick the right cistern pump for them:

1) Will the pump be used to pressurize water just for an irrigation system, as in the case of a non-potable rainwater harvesting system? If so, then we actually recommend a specially-designed pump package that utilizes our Franklin C1 Cistern Pump and what's known as a pump start relay . A pump start relay communicates directly with an automatic irrigation controller, and every time the irrigation controller turns on a zone, a signal is sent to the pump start relay that, in turn, then creates an electrical circuit to turn the pump on. In other words, every time the controller starts a zone, through the use of our relay switch, the pump turns on, as well. Likewise, every time a zone turns off, the pump turns off, too. Setting up an irrigation system in this manner avoids having to install other pump controls and pump components (such as pressure tanks ). Please do call us, though, to help design the package for you -- don't worry, it's not at all expensive! In fact, setting up a cistern irrigation system this way is by far the cheapest way to design an irrigation-only rainwater harvesting system. But there are a few other factors to consider in order to make sure the install is done safely and to make sure the pump is protected for years of solid use.

2) Do you just want the pump to feed a spigot (i.e., so you can use the cistern for manually watering a garden with a hose)? If so, then we highly recommend installing our Grundfos SBA pump and using 1" poly pipe to run to a frost-free yard hydrant. The Grundfos pump is a plug-and-play unit, meaning that literally all you have to do for installation is connect it to a power supply and connect it into your plumbing and you're good to go!

3) Are you using the cistern/ rain harvesting tank for your whole house supply? If so, then here is how we recommend weighing options:

*If cost (with quality, of course!) is most important, the Grundfos SBA is definitely the most cost-effective solution as it not only drastically reduces installation time, but it eliminates the need for additional components like a pressure tank and a pump control kit/ tank tee kit.

*If quality is most important, truly we only carry products that we have field tested and believe will hold up for the long haul. Any of our pumps (with the exception of our Wayne 1HP sprinkler pump, which is only meant for quick connection to an above-ground tank for irrigation purposes) will be a good option for quality.

*If ease of installation is most important, then, again, nothing is easier than the Grundfos SBA or the Grundfos MQ models. Someone with even minimal proficiency in plumbing will be able to install either pump in short time.

*If you want to ability to adjust and tweak the pump, then our Franklin C1 Cistern Pump is the way to go. The Franklin pump installs like a traditional well pump, so if you're wanting someone to install for you, this may be the model they are most comfortable with. While you'll need a pressure tank and a tank tee kit to complete installation (you may want to consider also using a pitless adapter inside the tank and a normally open float switch to protect the pump during low water events), the benefit of this pump is that the pressure switch that is included with the tank tee kit allows for some fine tuning in terms of operating pressure on the pump. Pressure switches operate between a differential (in most cases, between 40-60 PSI). However, the pump's performance (which is controlled by the pressure switch) can be fine-tuned by adjusting the tension in the pressure switch's springs. One caution: While adjustment and fine-tuning is possible with the Franklin pump, it is only recommended for those with experience in well pumps as the pressure tank's empty pressure also has to be adjusted. Also, while pressure adjustment is not possible with the Grundfos SBA pump, we have yet to have a customer who wishes it could be, as it is perfectly designed to supply average household pressure. In other words, the SBA pump is like being on town water supply, where pressure is not adjustable but it doesn't matter because it's sufficient.

*If you want constant pressure, the Grundfos SBA pump is, again, for you. Since the Grundfos pump does not use a pressure switch to operate, it does not operate within a wide pressure differential, but instead delivers constant, uniform pressure, similar to that of a more-advanced (and more costly) Variable Frequency Drive pump .

We hope this guide is helpful in choosing the right pump for your application. As always, please feel free to contact us with any questions, or if you would like us to walk you through the process of deciding which pump and which components would suit your situation best.

Rain Water Barrel Downspout Diverter for 3x4 Downspouts

Sun, 24 Jan 2021 15:22:26 GMT

Rain Brothers is happy to announce that we now carry a downspout diverter engineered specifically for 3"x4" downspouts . The 3x4 downspout diverter functions just the same as our 2x3 downspout diverters , and is just as easy to install. The only difference is that 3x4 diverter is installed on the side of the downspout, whereas the 2x3 is typically installed on the front of the downspout.

Catching rainwater has never been easier. Whether your downspout is 2x3 inches or 3x4 inches, or if you have 3 inch or 4 inch round downspout , we have a downspout converter/ diverter that is just the right fit for you.

Rain Brothers Offering CorGal Corrugated Steel Water Tanks for Rainwater Harvesting

Sat, 23 Jan 2021 15:23:50 GMT

Rain Brothers LLC is proud to offer a complete line of Corrugated Galvanized Steel Water Storage Tanks from CorGal . From residential scale to commercial installations, from 500 to 500,000 gallon capacities... we are your source for CorGal's line of tanks .

CorGal water storage tanks are popular for many applications including rainwater harvesting, stormwater management, fire protection, irrigation, agricultural, industrial, mining, potable drinking water and more. The tanks are manufactured from high quality corrugated, hot-dipped galvanized steel for superior strength and durability. Each CorGal Tank is engineered to withstand the wind and snow loads and seismic forces at specific locations to ensure longevity of the tank. Intensive engineering to national design codes makes these tanks extremely adaptable to any climate, landscape type or building facility. Every tank is custom built, unique to the customer's needs and assembled at the project site.

Architects/Engineers : Let us help with your system design. Contact us today for specs, cut sheets, design ideas, and more.

Don't want a big steel tank? We also offer residential-sized corrugated steel culvert tanks. Contact us today for more information.

Municipal Rainwater Conservation Programs

Fri, 22 Jan 2021 15:25:51 GMT

Rain Brothers LLC is proud to partner with local and state municipalities and agencies to provide discounted rain barrels and rain barrel kits to residents.

Municipal rain barrel programs are great for educating the public on the ecological, financial, and community benefits of rainwater conservation. Interested in how your municipality could partner with Rain Brothers LLC? Contact us today! We are happy to design a rain barrel municipal program for the residents of your area.

Some of our municipal clients include:

Franklin County, Ohio Community Backyards Program

Los Angeles Beautification Team

Florida Yards and Neighborhoods Program

Rainwater Harvesting in Ohio: Regulations and Restrictions

Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:26:27 GMT

Did you know that the Ohio Department of Health regulates “private water systems” ? This includes cisterns, potable water wells, ponds, spring tanks, and hauled water storage tanks.

By ODH's definition, private water systems provide drinking water to fewer than 25 people, less than 60 days/year, or have less than 15 service connections.

Under that definition, these regulations are applicable to residential homes and communities with fewer than 25 residents, as well as small businesses, churches, etc.

Find the ODH Ohio Administrative Code regulations here . If you have any questions, please call or text us at (937) 949-1100 .

Which UV water filter is right for you?

Wed, 20 Jan 2021 15:29:21 GMT

If you've been to our online store to look for a UV water filter, you've seen that there are many different options available, with prices ranging from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars. It makes little sense why there is such a huge price range, right? So what is the difference?

To understand the price ranges, we need to understand that UV systems can be separated by their classification, flow rate, and sophistication.

First, a bit about classification. UV units are generally measured as either NSF Class B or NSF Class A. An NSF Class B system will be a less expensive option. These systems are designed to be secondary sterilization/disinfection filters for bacteria control. In other words, a Class B system should be used in conjunction with another means of controlling bacteria. This can include chlorine injection, ozone , or reverse osmosis . Because of this, Class B systems do not measure as high of an UV output/dosage at a given flow rate. An example of a Class B unit would include our Trojan UV Max D4 model.

In contrast, we have NSF Class A systems. NSF defines as Class A UV system as one that can act as the sole means of sterilization/disinfection for a given water system. Specifically, the UV dosage will be higher at a given flow rate. Class A systems usually include a flow restrictor (to maintain proper UV dosage at a specified flow rate; i.e., 10 GPM) and a clarity sensor (to measure water clarity and to alert when cloudiness/turbidity is restricting full dosage). In Ohio, the Department of Health requires that all UV systems meet NSF Class A guidelines for any system that is used for primary water supply. An example of a Class A unit would include our UV Max Pro 10 .

Along with classification, each UV system will have a flow rate assigned to it. For the Class A UV Max Pro 10, the "10" refers to the flow rate for the unit -- i.e., 10 gallons per minute at NSF Class A standard dosage. You'll want to match the UV system with your pump capabilities. Most residential applications will not need a system greater than 10 gallons per minute (GPM).

Finally, there are various levels of sophistication for UV systems. By far, the most advanced and sophisticated UV system that we offer is our line of UV Pure sterilizers. The UV Pure systems are virtually maintenance-free. Commonly, a UV system (like the UV Max or the Sterilight units ) will include four major components: A lamp, a glass sleeve (encases the lamp and protects it from moisture), a stainless steel chamber, and a ballast with control box. In these traditional units, the user must regularly turn off the system and clean the glass sleeve that encases the bulb in order to ensure full penetration of UV light into the water supply occurs. Doing so can be a somewhat tedious and delicate process, especially if a water supply has high turbidity or low clarity. In contrast, the UV Pure units use two lamps and reflective interior surface, allowing for fuller penetration of UV dosage. Additionally, instead of the lamps being encased in a glass sleeve, the water is encased in a sleeve, and the sleeve is regularly and automatically cleaned by a motorized scrubber. Whereas the UV Max and Sterilight units require quarterly maintenance, the UV Pure systems, on average, go years without needing to be maintained (other than replacing the lamps).

So which system do we recommend? It depends on the application. If you are installing a residential rainwater collection system, and you want to use UV as the sole means of sterilization, we almost always recommend the UV Max IHS22-E4 Ultraviolet Water Sterilization System . This unit continually proves itself to be the best in terms of quality, and it performs at NSF Class A standards.

As always, thanks for reading!

Colorado Legalizes Rain Barrels

Tue, 19 Jan 2021 15:30:52 GMT

Rainwater collection is now legal throughout the United States. Colorado Governor, John Hickenlooper, recently signed a new law allowing Colorado residents to have two rain barrels on their property, holding up to 110 gallons. It would seem intuitive to many people that rain that falls on your property should be your water to use, should you choose to collect it. However, it had been technically illegal in Colorado for many years based on archaic water laws. The gist of the existing law was that collecting rainwater on your property prevented said water from reaching farmers and other water rights holders. And in a state like Colorado, where drought is common, a farmers' concern is understandable. However, there are many reasons why allowing rain barrels may be beneficial for both residents and farmers.

Owning a rain barrel fosters a sense of water conservation. When irrigating a garden with a rain barrel, one becomes acutely aware of the amount of water being used and considers efficient ways to water such as drip line or soaker hose kits . When one irrigates from their house spigot, the amount of water being used is harder to quantify, and one is likely to over-water.

This mindset of conservation is what Colorado lawmakers are hoping to to cultivate by passing the new law allowing rain barrels. It is best for the entire community, both residents and farmers, when the general public is cognizant of their personal water-usage and takes steps to efficiently use their water .

Rainwater collection has already become popular in many other states, and is even encouraged by local governments . Colorado may be a little late to the game, but we're glad they're finally here.

Rain Barrels: Zika Concerns?

Mon, 18 Jan 2021 15:31:27 GMT

Experts are forecasting that the Zika virus , carried by mosquitos, has a very real potential of spreading throughout the United States this summer. Mosquitos' larvae grow in standing water, and those of us enthusiastic about rain barrels should do our due diligence to prevent mosquito larvae from growing in our rainwater. Here, I've compiled a list of ways to prevent mosquitoes from breeding, not only in your rain barrels, but also around your home.

1. Make sure you rain barrel has a closed top. It should either have a lid, or insect netting for preventing mosquitos from getting to the water. If you're unable to have a lid or netting, make sure to treat your rainwater with mosquito dunks that will kill the larvae.

2.Check the grade around your home for any low spots where water may puddle. Fill in any low spots with dirt and seed to ensure your property sheds water to the existing drainage.

3. If you have a pond, regularly manage any floating debris to eliminate sites where mosquitos could lay eggs.

4. Remove any old tires and have them recycled. If you have a tire swing, drill holes in the bottom so that water can drain out.

5. Ensure that your gutters have a proper slope so that water is draining effectively toward the downspout. Clean out your gutters regularly to prevent standing water.

6. Be aware of accidental rain-water collectors around your home, such as awnings, watering cans, bird baths, tarps, etc. Make sure to empty or change standing/stagnant water regularly.

7. If you have an ornamental pond, be sure to stock it with fish to eat the larvae.

Nobody needs zika , let us do our part to help stop the spread.

Irrigating your Garden from your Rain Barrel

Sat, 16 Jan 2021 15:34:28 GMT

With Spring right around the corner, many people are planning out their gardens. A major component of a future garden plan is figuring out how to irrigate. Installing a Rain Barrel is a great place to start. Not only is it a source for free water, but it is also clear of chemicals, such as chlorine and flouride, that are often present in city tap water. Your plants will thank you for giving them pure water to drink.

Once you have you a Rain Barrel and it's collecting water, the next thing to figure out is the best method to get that water to your plants. Here is a list of irrigation tips to maximize your precious collected rainwater.

Soil Preparation

-Soils may be sandy and gravely which hurts water retention, or they may have high clay content which can retain too much water. Adding organic material such as compost to your soil will help stabilize either extreme and create a moisture balanced environment for your plants' roots.

-Prepared beds are ideal for root mobility. Individual planting holes can restrict your plants' roots, thus restricting access to water. Take the time to prepare an entire bed and watch your plants flourish.

-Be sure to mulch. Mulch will help hold moisture that would otherwise evaporate and will also help moderate your soil temperature.

Water Where It Matters

-Many people assume that irrigating your garden involves a hose and spray nozzle working with 45-50 pounds of water pressure. However, this is a perfect example of how not to water your garden. First, you will waste a large amount of water. Much of the water coming out the nozzle will not make it to your plants roots. Second, continually soaking your plants' leaves with water puts them at risk for certain fungal disease. Finally, unless you're using a sprinkler, you must stand there and hold the hose, which is precious time you could be doing something else.

-A soaker hose or drip irrigation system is the best method to water your garden. These methods deliver water right the base of the plant (exactly where you want it), getting right to the roots. As opposed to a spray nozzle, you're giving your plants a slow, steady drink of water that will penetrate deep below the roots. This, in turn, encourages the roots to grow deeper making for a healthier plant. It is important when choosing a soaker hose to use with your rain barrel that you choose a soaker hose that works with low pressure systems, such as this soaker hose here .

A Few Other Tips

-Water when needed. If rain is in the forecast, hold off on watering your garden. Overwatering can decrease oxygen levels in your soil and can cause root rot, killing your plants.

-Water in the mornings. This will decrease the amount of water that evaporates. Also, if you water with a hose and nozzle (which I advise against), this will give your plants leaves time to dry off, decreasing the risk of fungal disease.

-Pull out the weeds! All those pesky weeds in your garden are drinking water that your lovely, food-producing plants could be drinking. Eliminate the competition.

Happy Gardening!

How to Prevent Your Pump From Burning Up

Wed, 13 Jan 2021 15:38:59 GMT

Electric pumps are a beautiful thing. My great-grandfather and grandpa would spend days in South Dakota installing a single windmill pump for a water well. Now, it usually takes us an hour at the most to install an electric well/cistern pump... all with flow/pressure results that are much more reliable and impressive than my great-grandfather could've ever imagined.

Yet, as great as they are, electric pumps can be a headache (at best) if and when they burn up. A quality electric pump should last upwards of 15 years of continual household use. There are certain precautions you can take to ensure that your pump lives out its fullest potential.

First, why does a pump burn up? Typically, pumps die on us because they ran dry. In other words, the cistern or well ran out of water, but the pump kept running... and running... and running. Pumps are designed so that incoming water, as it passes through the pump body and the impellers, acts as a cooling agent to keep the pump's electric motor cool. Without water, the motor runs hot, and as it heats up, impellers start to warp, bearings start to give, and the motor starts to seize.

The best way to prevent your pump from burning up, then, is to prevent it from ever running dry (and, by the way, this tutorial is true for both above-ground jet pumps and submersible pumps ). There are a few different ways of accomplishing this:

1) A Normally-Open Float Switch - A float switch is just what it sounds like: a floating switch. Picture a light switch that rides the water level. When the water level is high, the switch is up and the power is on. When the water level is low, the float switch drops down and turns the power off. There are two types of float switches: Normally closed and normally open . One turns the power off when the water level is down (normally open) and open turns power on when the water level is down (normally closed... generally used to turn on a light to warn of low water level ). If you want to absolutely guarantee that your pump will never run dry, interrupt your pump's power supply with a normally open float switch and set the switch so that it turns the switch "off" when the water level is still just above your pump's intake. (By the way, we carry a pump that has a built-in float switch ).

2) A Low-Pressure Cut-Off Pressure Switch - A pressure switch is the most popular method for controlling a pump (automatically turning it on and off). There is an alternative pressure switch – one that has a toggle-switch on the side that is influenced by low pressure situations. Specifically, when the water pressure dips below 12 PSI, the toggle switch disconnects the pump's circuit and shuts the pump off. 12 PSI is significant because a functioning water pump (one that is appropriately sized) does not just dip down to 12 PSI unless something else is going on – and, often times, we can assume that "what's going on" is that the pump has started to draw air into its line and is therefore struggling to build pressure. Installing a low-pressure cut-off switch definitely does a great job at saving pumps (especially above-ground jet pumps). However, it also does a great job at being a bit of a hassle for the homeowner, mainly due to the fact that, in order to get your pump running again, you have to manually pull up on the toggle switch and hold it until your pump builds up pressure again. However, if you're looking for a cheap and easy pump-saving solution, a low-pressure cut-off switch may be just your ticket.

3) A Pumpsaver – Pumpsavers are electronic sensors that detect amperage draws. When a pump draws air (i.e., when the tank is low), a pump pulls lower than normal amperage. A pumpsaver will detect that differential, and will go through a shutdown mode of the pump circuit. The pumpsaver will continue to re-test the circuit at the preset cycle period (an adjustment on the device allows this cycle period to be between 2 and 225 minutes). If a low amp draw continues, the pump continues to be shut down until normal operating power occurs again. Pumpsavers are excellent products and definitely do a great job at protecting pumps. They are also a great product for low-producing wells -- specifically, in having the low-producing well pump into a reservoir tank to draw from the tank instead of the well. In terms of price, this is the most expensive option for pump protection.

Thanks for reading!

Concrete Cistern pH

Tue, 12 Jan 2021 15:40:05 GMT

Concrete cisterns are, in our experience, the best type of tank to use for underground drinking water systems. Rainwater tends to have a lower pH (acidic), while concrete has a higher pH (alkaline). As rainwater fills a concrete tank, the concrete then actually helps neutralize the water and balance the pH, if not slightly alkalinize it, which is why, after the cistern has gone through a few empty-full cycles, a litmus test of your cistern water would reveal a pH of between 6-8 – the optimal range for a good drinking water system.

While concrete cisterns help neutralize acidic rainwater, initially, the residual concrete dust from the manufacturing/casting of the tanks will elevate the water's pH to high alkaline levels (10-11). This is completely normal, though for new concrete cisterns, precautions should be taken to get water down to 7-9 range. There are two approaches to managing this initial alkalinity:

1) Flush the tank. For this method, we recommend hauling in a load of water from a local water hauler (in Ohio, a list of water haulers can be obtained through your County's Department of Health or from the Ohio Department of Health Office of Environmental Health ). You can then use the hauled water to rinse the walls of the tank to remove as much concrete dust residue as possible. Do not drink this water, but instead either pump it out after a few days or use it for non-potable applications (flushing toilets, showering, irrigation, etc.). Occasionally, it may take two and sometimes three full empty-fill cycles before the water inside the tank reaches a safe pH level of 9.

2) Pressure wash/scrub. For this method, once the tank has initially been installed, use a pressure washer with a 55-gallon drum of clean water and a cup of unscented chlorine bleach to pressure wash the walls of the tank. You may also use a scrub brush with a bucket of water/chlorine mix and hand scrub the walls. Doing so will remove the majority of concrete dust from the side walls. Then, when possible, pump out the water from the bottom of the tank (note: you may have to put more water into the tank to be able to pump the "dirty water" out). If it is not possible to pump out the bottom of the tank after pressure washing/scrubbing, then get a load of hauled water into the tank but do not drink water from this load. Again, use that first load for non-potable uses only.

These precautions may sound intimidating, but the reality is that the work on the front end is minimal compared to the lifetime of fresh, clean water you will receive from a concrete cistern.

As always, thanks for reading.

How to Elevate Your Rain Tank

Mon, 11 Jan 2021 15:41:38 GMT

Are you looking to create a completely off-grid rainwater harvesting system? Want to eliminate the need for an electric pump?

If you answered "yes" to both of those questions, then an elevated above-ground tank may be the solution you are looking for. Elevating a water tank increases the available water pressure and lessens (or eliminates) the need for pumping. For every foot of elevation of your water, you increase your water pressure by a factor of 0.43 PSI -- the higher you elevate, then, the more water pressure you get.

Our experience has shown us that you don't have to have a backyard water tower to create a usable rain system. Quite the contrary: Even elevating the tank a few feet drastically increases the functionality of your rain system.

Years ago, we developed a design for a platform for elevating an 1,100-gallon rainwater tank for a Mennonite Church here in Columbus, Ohio.

Above is an image of the platform post construction. The 2x4s leaning on the platform are used to roll the tank onto the platform once the groundwork has been completed.

We have now decided to release our design for educational purposes only. You are welcome to reference it, but please consult a structural engineer before constructing a platform for your tank. To view our design, click here .

In the News

Sun, 10 Jan 2021 15:42:44 GMT

Over our ten years in business, we have been fortunate enough to have made the news a few times. Below are some links to some of the news stories that have written about our company.

The Metropreneur Columbus, "Rain Brothers Bringing Back a Bygone Conservation Method", March, 2011

US Green Building Council "Small Business Spotlight Interview," October, 2014

Columbus Business First, "Eartha, Rain Brothers: Natural office mates take steps to green up each biz," April, 2014

The Columbus Dispatch, "Reduce, reuse, recycle: Rain barrels do it all," April, 2011

Ohio University Journal, "Rain Brothers," June, 2010

Natural Awakenings, "Eartha and Rain," October, 2014

Columbus Messenger, "Perfect storm comes together for blue roof," Jan., 2016

Fresno Bee, "Well problems force Sierra residents to take conservation seriously," March, 2015

This Old House, "How to Build a Rain Barrel," 2014

The Columbus Dispatch, "New Mickey D's testament to green," November, 2011

A "Blue Roof" System for Managing Stormwater

Sat, 09 Jan 2021 15:46:32 GMT

Last winter, we at Rain Brothers, LLC designed, developed, and installed a simple, cost-effective "blue roof" system for managing stormwater for the City of Grove City here in Ohio. A "blue roof" is a new best management practice (or BMP) for stormwater -- specifically, it is a way to slow a rain event by creating localized absorption on the roof itself, as well as by creating filtration layers to restrict the flow of the rainwater through the gutter/drainage (and, yes, there are lots of structural analysis calculations that are involved in ensuring the roof can support a slowed rain event).

The more we can spread out a rain event, the less immediate pressure we put on a municipality's storm system. This, in turn, means that the direct discharge in our rivers and streams (storm sewers often discharge directly into our watershed) is slowed, which lessens the chance for erosion, river turbidity, silting, etc.

In isolation, the act seems small. Adapting these stormwater BMPs on a large scale, however, will have a dramatic impact in not only preserving our eco-system but also in maintaining high water quality in our watershed regions.

Here is a link to a recent article about our blue roof system.

Below are pictures (before and after) of the installation of the blue roof at the Grove City Municipal Building.

Is My Home a Good Candidate for a Cistern?

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Sat, 09 Jan 2021 11:36:00 GMT

Is My Home a Good Candidate for a Cistern?

You may be thinking about the next step up from rain barrels at your home. Or you may want a way to supplement well water with an alternative water supply. Or maybe you’re worried about water shortages and want a way to hydrate your gardens without using city water. These are all great reasons for considering a residential cistern.

But how do you know if a cistern will fit into your life?

This article will walk you through some things to consider before installing a cistern at your home.

Rainwater Harvesting in a Residential Neighborhood?

The first thing to think about is where you live and whether it will impact the installation of a water cistern. For example, most neighborhood associations would frown upon a 500-gallon cistern installed outside your backdoor. While generally there are no restrictions on cistern installation in rural areas, if the cistern is to be installed underground it’s possible that permits may need to be pulled. The point is to think about the impact of cistern installation on the neighbors – if you have any nearby – and restrictions that may govern rainwater harvesting.

Cisterns are generally good options for homes with large rooftops and a way to divert several downspouts into one tank. If you’re thinking about a water cistern, walk around during the next rainstorm to see the amount of rainwater there is to harvest. Small roofed homes (less than 1,000 square feet) generally do fine with rain barrels.

Something else to think about is that the cistern should be in a spot that’s close to the rainwater harvesting source, i.e., the roof and the downspouts. But it should also be close to wherever you want to use the water. For example, your vegetable garden. There are guidelines tied to where it should be placed in relation to sewer lines, power cables, and trees, too. Finding good level ground is also important, even if the tank is buried.

In general, your cistern installation should do the minimum amount of damage possible to the existing landscape. Rain Brothers tries our best not to damage trees in the process of excavating for underground tanks, for example. All of these considerations are also tied, of course, to the size of the tank. We can help you calculate the size of the tank you’ll need based on average annual rainfall, the square footage of your roof, and the number of downspouts we connect to the water cistern.

Finally, we should discuss how to handle cistern runoff if the tank gets too full. For underground tanks, we can install backup sump pumps that kick in if the water table gets too high. Or, we can set up an overflow outlet to discharge into a rain garden or some other runoff collector. While this may be the final step toward water cistern installation – it’s a very important one.

Cistern Installation – Call Rain Brothers

If you’re thinking about installing a water cistern in your home, consider a free consultation from Rain Brothers. We’ve been installing in-ground and above-ground cisterns all around the Midwest for years. Contact us to kick around your ideas and put our experience to work for your family.

All About First Flush Diverters

Fri, 08 Jan 2021 15:50:07 GMT

Downspout First Flush Water Diverters can improve water quality and reduce tank/cistern maintenance by preventing the first flush of water, which may contain roof contaminants, from entering the tank/cistern. They help ensure cleaner water is available for use, which protects rainwater pumps and internal household appliances such as clothes washing machines, toilets, hot water systems, etc.

There are two primary types of first flush systems: Underground and above ground. In this article, we will highlight the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

UNDERGROUND

Here in the Ohio region, we almost exclusively install underground first flush filters. The reason for this is simple: underground systems are safer for winter time applications as they lower (or eliminate) the risk of freezing. Before 2010, the most common way for us (and other contractors) to incorporate first flush diversion was by using a " roofwasher " filter made by Water Filtration Company . This filter box had a sump in the bottom with a filter element midway up the box. Water from the downspouts would enter the roofwasher box, fill the sump, and then remaining water would travel through the filter element and into the cistern; the sump, then, acted as a means of removing the first bit of water from the system. While this was great in theory, in practice it did not work out so well as the sump drain frequently would clog and, instead of "flushing" the water that was supposed to be remediated, what happened instead was that the water would sit stagnant in the roofwasher box until the next rain event. Instead of filtering the water, the flush box wound up often times contaminating the system even more as the sump water mixed with incoming water from fresh rains.

This brings us to our first rule of thumb for any good first flush system: The system must drain between rain events.

In the past decade, a new first flush roofwasher has come on the scene: The Wisy Vortex pre-cistern filter . Unlike traditional first flush filters, the Wisy does not contain a standpipe or a sump in which water sits. Instead, it works off of water's cohesion property as well as incoming velocity from water traveling through downspout drains to send initial water straight through to a "trash outlet" and away from the tank. As the rain event continues, water velocity in the downspout drains picks up, and water then starts to spin around a vertical, stainless steel filter element, and then into the cistern. A true feat of German engineering, the Wisy filter has become our go-to filter for every new cistern installation we do. (Update: Wisy has also come out with an in-tank filter -- called the Wisy Linear -- that serves the same function as the Vortex filter but at a fraction of the cost).

Finally, Rain Harvesting (an Australian company) also makes an underground first flush diverter kit where water drains straight into a chamber and then backs up and routes to the cistern. While we do carry Rain Harvesting products (including their downspout first flush kits ), we have chosen not to carry this unit as it is a deeply problematic design, especially in northern climates. Stay away from this product.

ABOVE GROUND

Occasionally, best design practices warrant installation of above-ground first flush diverters. While we rarely recommend above-ground first flush kits (especially in northern climates), we do incorporate them on above ground tank installations where the entire system will be winterized and drained. Also, if you are just harvesting from one downspout for your rain collection system, then the above-ground first flush kits can be a viable option. If you are harvesting from more than one downspout, however, installation and maintenance becomes tedious, and a filter like the Wisy Vortex or the Wisy Linear become a much better option.

Downspout First Flush Diverters , such as the 3″ and 4″ kits, are installed at each downspout that supplies water to the tank/cistern. They utilize a dependable ball and seat system – a simple automatic system that does not rely on mechanical parts or manual intervention. As the water level rises in the diverter chamber, the ball floats, and once the chamber is full, the ball rests on a seat inside the diverter chamber preventing any further water entering the diverter. The subsequent flow of water is then automatically directed along the pipe system to the tank/cistern.

Features and Benefits of First Flush Downspout Diverters

Prevents sediment, bird droppings, spiders, insects, mosquito eggs and debris from entering the rainwater tank/cistern.
Improves water quality, protects pumps and internal appliances.
Easy installation, just add pipe and glue.
No mechanical parts.
Low maintenance requirements.

How do they work?

Fitting an appropriately sized First Flush Water Diverter is critical to achieve good quality water. Water Diverters improve water quality, reduce tank/cistern maintenance and protect pumps by preventing the first flush of water, which may contain contaminants from the roof, from entering the tank/cistern.

When it rains, water slowly builds up in the roof guttering system before it exits through the downspout. The first flush of water from the roof can contain amounts of bacteria from decomposed insects, skinks, bird and animal droppings and concentrated tannic acid. It may also contain sediments, water borne heavy metals and chemical residues, all of which are undesirable elements to have in a water storage system.

Instead of flowing to the water tank/cistern, these pollutants are diverted with the initial flow of water into the chamber of the water diverter. Our water diverters utilize a dependable ball and seat system – a simple automatic system that does not rely on mechanical parts or manual intervention.

As the water level rises in the diverter chamber, the ball floats, and once the chamber is full, the ball rests on a seat inside the diverter chamber preventing any further water entering the diverter. The subsequent flow of water is then automatically directed along the pipe system to the tank/cistern.

For a water diverter to work effectively, the contaminated water in the chamber must be sealed off. This prevents the water passing to the storage tank/cistern and ensure the water does not “syphon” off the contaminated water in the chamber. The simplest and surest way to do this is with a floating ball and seat.

A slow release valve ensures the chamber empties itself after rain and resets automatically. The diverted water need not be wasted water because the drain pipe from the diverter chamber can be fitted to a standard drip irrigation system.

How much water to divert?

It is important to prevent heavy sediments and other roof pollutants from entering the rainwater tank/cistern. The amount of water diverted should be a minimum of 12.5 gallons per 1000 square feet of roof area (or 0.0125 gallons per square foot). In calculating the amount of water to divert, consideration can be given to (1) the surface area of the roof, and (2) the amount of pollutants on the roof and gutters.

The following factors can be used as a guide in determining the volume of water to be diverted.

As a rule of thumb, the more water that is diverted the better the quality of water in the tank/cistern.

Installation Instructions

1. Determine the length of Diverter Chamber #4. Consider as a guide that each:

– 3 foot section of 3″ Schedule 40 PVC pipe holds approx. 1.5 gallons of water.

– 3 foot section of 4″ Schedule 40 PVC pipe holds approx. 2 gallons of water.

Fit the longest length of pipe possible, making sure the Screw Cap #10 is at least 6″ from the ground to allow for removal and cleaning.

2. Place the ball Seat #9 into the Tee Junction #6 ensuring the narrow end of the ball seat points down into the Diverter Chamber #4. Apply glue to the Diverter Chamber #4 and fit up against the Ball Seat #9

and hold until the glue sets. (Optional: Use a 45º bend adaptor to allow easier removal of the Screw Cap #10). Glue the Socket #14 to the bottom end of the Diverter Chamber #4.

3. Fix the assembled chamber directly to the wall in the desired position using the Wall Brackets.

4. Connect a Male & Female (M&F) Elbow #8b (if required) to the Chamber Outlet #8 and connect the downspout #3. Fit an elbow to the InFeed pipe #2 (if required) and connect to the bottom of the

selected rain head.

5. Select the appropriate Flow Control Valve #11 and insert into the Hose Connector #16, making sure the valve is inserted with the side marked “TOP” still showing. Start by using the Control Washer with

the smallest gauge hole (lowest number). Try a larger gauge Washer if experiencing blockages. Place the Filter Screen #13 into position from the outside of the Screw Cap #10 and then attach the Hose

Connector #16.

6. Place the Sealing Ball #5 into the Diverter Chamber #4 and attach the assembled Screw Cap #10 to the Socket #14.

Article courtesy of Rain Harvesting. Rain Harvesting is a company based in Australia that manufactures many of the products that we carry, including the first flush diverters referenced in the article.

Installing a Cistern: What to Expect

Fri, 08 Jan 2021 11:38:00 GMT

If you’re thinking aboutinstalling a cistern -- congratulations! You’re taking an important step towardconservation and budget reduction in your household. A cistern does both;harvesting rainwater makes use of a free natural resource, which conservesgroundwater. But it also saves money on your utility bills or even delays thecost of digging a new well. You can capture rainwater and use it anytime,during periods of drought or to water the garden throughout the year.

This post looks at the types of cisterns and what to expect during the installation process.

Types of Cisterns

Cisterns are tanks that are designed to store rainwater. Typically the rainwater is captured off a roof and stored in a sealed container either beside the home or business or sometimes buried underground.

If you’re having trouble understanding the concept, just think about a rain barrel with a much, much bigger capacity. In most cases, the goal of the cistern is to capture supplemental water to add to your primary water supply.

Cisterns are big, sealed tanks that hold rainwater. The capacity can range from 100 gallons to several thousand and can capture water from one or all of the gutters and downspouts on a building. There are really five primary characteristics to a cistern:

Cisterns are made from heavy plastics or other non-reactive materials. Some of the largest cisterns are buried underground and made from reinforced concrete, but cisterns can be made of galvanized steel, too.

It’s important to note that the water collected in a cistern is non-potable, which means it’s unsuitable for drinking unless it’s filtered and sterilized. That’s because the rainwater captures particulates from a roof and it has a high level of pollutants and bacteria.

What is Cistern Installation Like?

The answer to this question depends upon several factors. First, is the cistern above ground or below ground? A below ground cistern requires excavation, irrigation lines, and pumping equipment. There may be grading and digging equipment required. A permit may be required, depending upon local ordinances. The cost and time it takes to install an underground tank vary depending upon a variety of factors. Some of the factors to consider include:

For an above ground tank, there are all kinds of options to consider, including how large and if it will be gravity-fed or will require a pump. It the tank is over 500 gallons, it’s advisable to set up a concrete pad or compacted gravel foundation to hold it safely. For smaller tanks, we can custom-build a secure, efficient platform.

Talk with Rain Brothers to find out your options. Call or text us at (937) 949-1100 .

UV Sterilization in Rain Harvesting Systems

Thu, 07 Jan 2021 15:51:04 GMT

Ultra-violet sterilization units should be installed last in the filtration set-up. Because water clarity is important in ensuring good penetration (and therefore optimal sterilization) by the UV lamp, it is vital to have all the layers of sediment filtration occur prior to the UV lamp, as shown here.

Best Way to Prepare – Rainwater Harvesting

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Thu, 07 Jan 2021 14:37:00 GMT

Best Way to Prepare – Rainwater Harvesting

The National Centers for EnvironmentalInformation (NOAA) issued a report inApril 2018 taking about the weather, something we at Rain Brothers pay close attention to. The NOAA report showed abnormalities in the climate all across the U.S.:

Why are we sharing this? Because right now it seems smart to prepare for adverse weather events. At this point, we don’t know if drought will hit the Midwest – but we do know that staying prepared for what could happen is a smart idea.

Rainwater harvesting is one way to stay one step ahead of Mother Nature. Let’s look at ways to harvest the rain, store it safely, and put it to good use in times of drought.

The Why’s and How’s of Rainwater Harvesting

During the torrential downpours we’ve been having, homeowners and businesses have been capturing “liquid gold” in the form of free water. When people are considering rainwater harvesting for the first time, they usually have one or more goals in mind:

Homeowners and businesses often approach Rain Brothers to add a cistern , which is an underground or above ground tank that stores rainwater. An article in the BBC News points out that rainwater harvesting as a practice has been around since before the Roman Empire, “the practice died away after mains-supplied water was introduced, but with pressure on water supplies the demand for rainwater recycling systems is rising again.”

So, it’s not just Americans who are considering harvesting rainwater! In fact, the practice is widespread across the world, as citizens recognize the increasing importance of access to water for drinking, bathing, and eating.

The simplest form of rainwater harvesting is to place a rain barrel under the downspout of your home to collect the rain that comes off the roof. But more sophisticated cisterns can include cement or plastic tanks buried underground , or large above ground tanks . There are four key elements to cisterns:

Rain Brothers specializes in the installation of rainwater harvesting systems. We’ve installed and renovated huge underground storage tanks to above ground holding units to simple rain barrels. We are skilled in the design, installation, and repair of residential and commercial rainwater harvesting systems. With more than 20 years in the field, we are a one-stop shop for everything rainwater. Contact us to discuss your options.

How to Filter Rainwater for Drinking

Wed, 06 Jan 2021 15:53:13 GMT

Believe it or not, rainwater can be filtered into the best-tasting, freshest water you’ve ever had. In our home state of Ohio, there are literally thousands of homes that rely on rainwater for their sole water supply, and thousands more homes that utilize rainwater for the majority of their watering needs.

But care must be taken. While rainwater is filtered naturally through solar distillation, some not-so-fresh things happen to the rain on the way back down -- especially once the rain hits our roofs and collects all the organic material (animal feces and all) that collects there. To return the rain to a potable state once again, there are some time-tested, effective methods we can use for filtration: There’s the short-term fix (great for emergency water situations) and the long-term rainwater filtration method (great for utilizing rainwater for your water needs). Here’s an overview of both:

THE SMALL-SCALE, SHORT-TERM, SIMPLE METHOD

If you live in a rural area and rely on a well (and, more importantly, on electricity to provide power to your well pump), or if you are on a municipal water supply and want to have a back-up water source for emergency preparedness, you may want to consider having a short-term filtration solution on hand. In this case, we recommend using an ozone generator with your barrel or tank. Ozone (or O3), when injected into a water supply, will kill any bacteria and algae in your storage vessel, making it ideal for quick and easy filtration. Ozone will not, however, remove harmful chemicals in the water supply, so extra filtration may be needed and a water test is always recommended. Soon after ozone is injected into the water, it will dissipate, leaving no net effect to the water supply. A word of caution though: Ozone should only be used outdoors, and the barrel or tank it serves should be in a well-vented area.

RAINWATER FILTRATION FOR HOUSEHOLD APPLICATIONS

If you want to utilize rainwater for your home and are looking to install larger-scale filtration, there are a few steps to follow to ensure a fresh, clean, efficient system. (CAUTION: It is tempting to cut out one or two of these steps, but, in so doing, you’ll put more burden on the other steps and will create more work for yourself down the road. After working on rainwater systems of all types for a decade, we’ve learned that lesson the hard way.)

Pre-tank filtration : First, you will want to consider a tank pre-filter into your system. While there are many on the market (and several in our store), a lot of the options available are designed for commercial and industrial applications and are not always cost-effective (or even efficient) for residential-scale systems. While we used to use roofwasher filters made by Water Filtration Company, we now exclusively use Wisy Vortex pre-filters in all of our drinking water system installations -- a filter which incorporate first flush diversion and utilize vertical filtration to ensure that your incoming water will not be contaminated by running through or over sitting debris. The Wisy filters will ensure that you'll rarely have to clean out your cistern -- they're that thorough. However, if you are looking to cut costs, you'll at least want to consider utilizing one of our aluminum downspout debris filters to keep large debris from collecting inside your tank.
In-tank filtration: In-tank filtration is simple to do and can have a big impact on overall water quality. First rule of thumb is to build in a "force breaker" (also called a " calming inlet ") into your tank by plumbing your tank inlets so that they turn 90 degrees and run all the way down inside your tank and stop just above the tank floor. Consider putting concrete blocks around the inlet pipe at the bottom of the tank, or install two 90-degree elbow fittings (to bend 180 degrees) on the pipe. Doing so act as a “force breaker” and will reduce turbidity in the water, thereby maintaining sediment zones in the tank (whereas if the incoming water from the downspout drains just pours straight into the top of the tank, water will stir during every rain event and become murky). Sedimentation will be most heavily concentrated on the very bottom and on the very top of the water in a given cistern, so if we can reduce turbidity in the water and draw the water from the middle of the water level (using a floating intake filter or a submersible cistern pump ), we’ll get the cleanest water from our system.
Activated carbon: All water will carry with it its own taste and odor, and rainwater is no exception. To get the best water quality possible, as well as the best tasting water, a granulated activated carbon (or “GAC”) filter is a must for any system. As a homeowner, you would have the option of going with a simple GAC cartridge filter , or a more thorough and larger household GAC unit. Typically, we install a 5 micron activated carbon filter right before our UV sterilizer .
Sediment filtration : Any remaining sedimentation in the water should be filtered out as thoroughly as possible. Sediment size is measured in microns -- the higher the micron reading, the larger the particulate. In Ohio, all rainwater systems that are used for drinking water must be filtered down to at least 5 microns (which is small enough to filter out cysts from the water). When we are putting in drinking water systems from rainwater tanks, we generally install a two-stage sediment filtration system , starting with a 20 micron filter , followed by a 5 micron activated carbon filter . When installing sediment filters , always put the higher micron element first, followed by the lowest.
UV Sterilization : The final step in any rainwater filtration system needs to be disinfection (killing bacteria) or sterilization (sterilizing bacteria so that it cannot reproduce, thereby rendering it harmless). Even after filtering the water down to 5 microns, bacteria can still be present in the water. While many rainwater systems use chlorine to disinfect the water, our preferred method for bacteria filtration is ultra-violet sterilization. We strive for the best possible water quality, and adding chlorine to the water, in our experience, does not lend itself to this end. UV sterilizers, by contrast, offer a very safe and extremely effective result. However, UV lamp sleeves need regular (usually every 3 months) cleaning to ensure that the UV light penetrates the water fully. Cleaning is not difficult and, with all of the above filtration steps in place, can be a very quick process (under 5 minutes). Alternatively, self-cleaning UV sterilizers are available, such as our UV Pure units which utilize a motorized wiper that periodically wipes down any film on the internal glass sleeve to keep UV penetration of the water supply as full as possible. For more information on UV sterilizers , please see our article on UV Sterilization Systems .

Rainwater Harvesting Tanks: The Best Way to Store Rainwater

Wed, 06 Jan 2021 14:39:00 GMT

Rainwater Harvesting: Best Way to Store Rainwater

One of the considerations for the design of your rainwater harvesting system is how to store it safely and effectively. It doesn’t matter if you’re a company seeking greener ways of conducting business, or a homeowner that wants to water their garden with rainwater; we still have to figure out how to store the rainwater harvest long-term.

This article will share some of the rules for rainwater storage so that you, too, can harvest this free resource.

Rainwater Storage How To’s

The first thing to consider for rainwater storage is what type of tank you’ll use. The biggest concern with holding water anywhere is the potential for mosquitos to breed. Since mosquitos carry disease and are generally annoying, this is definitely something we want to prevent! If you have standing water on your property that’s a problem, consider dropping in a Mosquito Dunk , a biodegradable organic control product that can rid the water of larvae.

To prevent the growth of more mosquitos, your rainwater storage container should be covered at all times. The rain barrels we sell are covered with lids, to prevent the spread of mosquitos and prevent the spread of algae. Other critters will also be attracted to the water, such as bugs and toads. Keeping the tank enclosed will prevent any problems.

Types of Rainwater Harvesting Tanks

The next consideration is whether you should install a bigger rainwater catchment system. These generally take the form of a cistern , which is basically a large tank that holds water. These can be made of concrete and buried underground or made of heavy-duty plastic and stored under or above the ground. Here are some pros and cons of both types of systems:

Another consideration with a rainwater harvesting tank is that they need to be secure so they are safe. Make sure these containers are installed on a secure, level foundation. As the tanks fill, be aware the water can shift, so you want to be sure the catchment system stays in place. Water is heavy, so children need to be made aware that the aboveground rain barrel or tank is not something to play with.

For homes using rain barrels, the downspouts and gutters should be regularly cleaned in order to keep the water from potentially causing diseases in plants, particularly young plants. Putting a cap over your downspout will help prevent debris from the roof running into your cistern or rain barrel.

For Help with Your Cistern Or Rainwater Harvesting Tanks – Call or Text us at 937-949-1100

Understanding the architecture of your rainwater catchment system is tied to your goals for the rainwater harvest, and a crucial part of the Rain Brothers process. We have more than 20 years of experience in the design, installation, and maintenance of rainwater harvesting systems. Contact us today to discuss your options for harvesting this free resource for your garden, home, or business.

All About UV Sterilization Systems

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Tue, 05 Jan 2021 15:58:00 GMT

All About UV Sterilization Systems

If you’re considering harvesting rainwater, one of the first things to think about is how you’ll use it. If the rainwater is to be used for bathing, showers, hand washing, cooking, or drinking, you’ll need to sterilize the rainwater first.

One of the best ways to clean up your rain harvest is with a UV water filter. Let’s look at the UV water filter and how to use it as part of your off-grid water system.

What are UV Sterilization Systems?

“Ultravioletlight (UV) is an effective means of disinfecting water.” Ohio Department ofHealth Bureau of Environmental Health

Generally, we conduct the process of rainwater harvesting by capturing the rain that runs off the roof of a residential or commercial structure. Of course, that rain collects particles and debris from the roofline that must be filtered. While we’ve talked about rainwater filters in another blog, once you’ve filtered the rainwater it must be sterilized in someway if you’re using it for human consumption.

A UV sterilization system generally consists of an ultraviolet (UV) lamp that sits within a quartz sleeve. You probably know that UV light is purifying; according to NASA , “Ultraviolet light is a form of radiation which is not visible to the human eye.” Live Science points out that UV light not only makes your black-light posters glow, it is also responsible for the sun rays that give you a tan – or make you burn.

When used as part of the practice of rainwater harvesting, however, UV light can destroy the tiny waterborne bacteria such as Giardia or Cryptosporidium that can make you sick. While it’s no problem to spray your garden vegetables with pure rainwater (making sure you wash the veggies before eating them, of course), any indoor use of this resource for humans must be cleaned.

There are different types of UV sterilization systems that can be used in rainwater harvesting and they can cost anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. A Class B UV sterilization system is the less expensive option, but these systems do not eliminate all forms of water parasites, so must be used in conjunction with another sterilization method.

A Class A UV sterilization system can act as the primary method of rainwater sterilization. These units use sophisticated technology to control the flow of water so that each drop is effectively treated for bacteria.

Interestingly state and local health departments often set regulations related to what type of system should be used when rainwater is harvested for indoor use. In Ohio, the Department of Health requires that UV sterilization follow specific guidelines to keep you safe. Here’s their Ultraviolet Light for Continuous Disinfection fact sheet , if you’d like to read up on what the state requires.

Rainwater Harvesting – Safe Enough to Drink

The Rain Brothers team has installed hundreds of rainwater harvesting systems. While some of these systems are used only as a means to water livestock or gardens, others are currently being used for indoor human consumption. Talk with our team about your rainwater harvest, how you’d like to use it, and what type of system is right for your home or business.

How to install a cistern pump

Tue, 05 Jan 2021 15:55:05 GMT

On our youtube page , we uploaded a video last year that reviews the basic components of a cistern pump, as well as details how cistern pumps are installed. In this case, we focused specifically on submersible cistern pumps that use a pressure switch for the pump control, as well as a pressure tank to regulate water pressure inside the house. Here is that video.

Since uploading this, we started to carry a new cistern pump -- one that does not require a pressure tank or a pressure switch to operate. That pump is our new Groundfos SBA submersible pump, and here is the video for that product:

Do UV Sterilization Systems Really Work?

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Mon, 04 Jan 2021 10:42:00 GMT

Do UV Sterilization Systems Really Work?

There’s some skepticism about whether UV sterilization systems really work to kill bacteria in the rainwater we harvest for human consumption. All you have to do is Google it and you’ll see the “flat earth” comments out there that say that UV lighting is useless for disinfecting anything.

In fact, those bloggers are wrong. The Center for Disease Control (CDC) , the agency tasked with combating some of the world’s most terrible bugs, actually commissioned a study on UV light. This blog will set the record straight about UV sterilization systems and their impact on the rainwater you capture and clean in order to drink or bathe in it.

How Does UV Sterilization Really Work?

UV stands for ultraviolet and that’s a type of light wave on the visible spectrum that we encounter most frequently in sunlight. UV waves can sterilize water but it can also give you skin cancer.

What you may not know is that UV light does not actually kill bacteria. In fact, UV light renders bacteria unable to reproduce, which means those little invisible bugs in the rainwater can’t harm us. The AmericanWater Works Association (AWWA) points out that what really happens when we irradiate these microorganisms, is that the UV light changes the cells of these bugs to keep them from replicating and causing illness in humans.

When harvesting rainwater, step one is to capture it in a holding tank, or cistern. The water that is used indoors must be filtered for sediment removal before being disinfected. Here’s a good infographic to show you the steps needed before consuming rainwater.

But before using rainwater indoors , there are a few hurdles to overcome and one is sterilization. The CDC published a study a few years ago that reinforced prior research saying that UV sterilization is an extremely effective germicidal mechanism for destroying the ability of bacteria to hurt humans. In fact, UV sterilization is so effective it is recommended for use on hospital surfaces where some very serious germs can be found.

The AWWA says that UV sterilization has some clear benefits:

So how are UV sterilization systems working together with rainwater harvesting systems?

UV Sterilization and Rainwater Harvesting

Rain Brothers specializes in installing rainwater harvesting systems. To make the water potable (drinkable) we also install Class A andClass B UV sterilization systems. A ClassA system , when sized and used properly, can fully clean rainwater for human consumption. While a Class B system is less expensive, you must utilize a secondary method for cleaning the rainwater, such as using a chemical to clean the water before consuming it.

Rain Brothers installs these systems all over the Midwest in commercial and residential applications. We have first-hand experience in how to harvest rainwater, filter it, and clean it properly with UV sterilization. Talk with us today about your options.

Simple, cheap rain barrel platform

Sun, 03 Jan 2021 15:56:29 GMT

We recently added a video to our youtube page detailing our favorite way to make a simple, inexpensive rain barrel platform. We hope you like it!

Top Three Reasons to Invest in an Off-Grid Water System

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Sun, 03 Jan 2021 10:20:00 GMT

Top Three Reasons to Invest in an Off-Grid Water System

A lot of us dream about living off the grid, not paying water or electric, maybe tying into a more natural and sustainable lifestyle. Maybe you like to picture packing up and heading off in an RV. Or you scroll through pictures of cool tiny homes and imagine life simplified.

Our residential and commercial customers realize some of that dream when they decide to invest in an off-grid water system. These systems can be very easy and inexpensive to install and they make use of a natural resource that’s all around us.

Let’s look at off-grid water systems as one way you can begin to realize your dreams of life in balance. Why should you invest in an off-grid water system?

Rainwater Harvest for Off-Grid Living

Water is everywhere. Rain Brothers can help you harvest it in an off-grid system such as a cistern . A cistern is simply a storage tank for holding rainwater. Usually, we capture the rain easily from the very roofs we live under. Then we design and build the cistern and add pumping features to get the water where it needs to go. We can also design the cistern as a gravity-fed unit that takes no electricity or set up a pumping station that you can hook to solar panels. Finally, if you want to use the rainwater harvest indoors, we can add filtration features to clean the water and make it potable.

But why would a family or a business owner decide to install an off-grid system? What are the benefits of having these systems installed?

Top Three Reasons for Off-Grid Water

#1 To provide a back-up to a primary water source.The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says more than 13 million people in the U.S. rely on private wells for drinking and other indoor uses. Wells tap into naturally occurring groundwater. But they can eventually run dry so homeowners use their rainwater harvest and off-grid water system to supplement and extend the life of their existing well. Too, off-grid water systems can be installed to water vegetable and flower gardens. Rainwater is healthier for the plants but also eliminates the cost of using the municipal water supply.

#2 To stay prepared for drought or other calamities.

The federal government tracks drought conditions across the U.S. As of the writing of this article, 22.6% of the U.S. is currently being impacted by drought. Having an off-grid water system is an insurance policy for times of water shortages.

#3 To lessen the drain on municipal water supplies and cut costs.

Many of our residential and commercial customers add a rainwater harvesting system as a way to cut their township or municipal water bill. Installing an off-grid water system is also an environmentally friendly way to reduce the drain on these shared resources while lowering costs.

Adding an off-grid water system has all kinds of benefits. We’ve found that these units easily pay for themselves. Plus it gives you peace of mind in knowing you’re doing something positive to conserve a natural resource.

Contact Rain Brothers to talk about our off-grid solutions for rainwater harvesting.

How to Build a Rain Barrel

Sat, 02 Jan 2021 15:58:05 GMT

Rain barrels are the best, fastest, and simplest way to start collecting rainwater for your home. In our 10 years in business, we have seen a lot of, shall we say, "troublesome" designs when it comes to rain barrels and rainwater catchment . We worked long and hard to come up with a good design for making rain barrel construction simple and DIY -friendly. That is why we developed a rain barrel construction and installation kit that allows for its user to construct their very own rain barrel in less than 5 minutes.

Our kit is so effective that This Old House picked one up and developed an online tutorial for making a rain barrel . See their video here .

We made a few videos of our own. We hope you'll find them helpful!

Five Ways to Filter My Rainwater Harvest

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Sat, 02 Jan 2021 14:36:00 GMT

Five Ways to Filter My Rainwater Harvest

Capturing rainwater as part of even a small off-grid water system is a great way to cut utility costs and extend your water supply during times of drought. Since we typically capture rain as it flows from our roofs, it’s important to set up some sort of filtration process to ensure roof particulates and debris doesn’t get into the water supply. Our roofs can collect everything from animal debris to leaves and twigs; however, this would be fine if you’re just using your rainwater harvest for the garden. However, since most roofs are made from asphalt, shingle debris could drain right into your rainwater supply tank.

If you’re planning on bathing or drinking the water, though, filtration is a necessity to keep you from getting sick from the rainwater. This article will look at five ways to filter your rainwater harvest to make it clean enough for you to drink.

Five Rainwater Filters to Consider

Rain Brothers installs both underground and above groundcistern units designed to capture your rainwater harvest. Over the years, we’vefigured out some of the best methods to use for the rainwater filter process.We install these systems but also sell them as stand-alone pieces in our Rain Brothers store .

There are really five key processes to consider for rainwater filtration:

Rain Brothers is standing by to help you establish and maintain your own rainwater harvest. Contact us at 937-949-1100.

Pump Buying Guide

bob@simplesitecompany.com (Bob Hansen) — Fri, 01 Jan 2021 00:03:00 GMT

PUMP BUYING GUIDE

We carry several high quality water pumps that can be used in a variety of applications.
Check out our guide to determine which pump will best suit your needs.

IF YOU HAVE AN UNDERGROUND WATER TANK, AND YOU…

Have a cabin, mobile home, tiny home, or building with limited or no indoor utility space: Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW , Strom BSP (3/4HP)

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel at least 5 gallons per minute, or GPM, (but not more than 8 GPM) at ~ 50 PSI: Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW , Strom BSP (3/4HP) , Franklin C1 with pressure tank

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel between 8-14 GPM at ~ 50 PSI: Strom BSP (3/4HP)

Want to supply an irrigation system where each zone is designed to expel between 12-17 GPM at ~50PSI: Strom BSP (1HP)

Want to supply a house or building with pressurized water, and the home/building has at least 4 sq ft of floor space in a utility room: Franklin C1 with 20-gallon pressure tank

Have an existing cistern with a water line to the tank but no power supply at the tank: Franklin VersaJet 3/4HP Jet Pump with pressure tank

IF YOU HAVE AN ABOVE-GROUND WATER TANK, AND YOU…

Have a cabin, mobile home, tiny home, or building with limited or no indoor utility space: Grundfos MQ with keypad cover , Grundfos SBA 3-45-AW , Strom BSP (3/4HP) . PLEASE NOTE: Winterization of pumps will be required if you live in an area where temps get below freezing.

Rain Brothers Tutorials

When the Well Runs Low: What’s Causing It—and What We Can Do About It

Fixing Dry Wells with Smart Water Storage and Rainwater Recharge

The Real Causes of Drying Wells

A Two-Part Solution That Works

A Model for the Future—Rooted in Local Responsibility

How to determine your well pump's HP and voltage

Finding your pump's HP and voltage is easier than you think...

Determining Pump's Voltage

Determining Pump's Horsepower

What to Expect with a New Concrete Rain Harvesting Cistern

Break-In, Water Quality & Maintenance Tips

Breaking In Your Cistern

Water Quality Issues

Maintaining Your Cistern

Conclusion

How to Install a Wisy Vortex Filter for Rainwater Prefiltration

How to Install a Wisy Vortex Filter

A Step-by-Step Guide to Installing a Wisy Vortex Filter

Ohio Health Department Approved Rainwater Harvesting Installation

How to set up a Rainwater Harvesting Cistern (concrete): Step by step how to

How to set up a Rainwater Harvesting Cistern (concrete)

Request an estimate for a full system install

Enhance Your Rainwater Harvesting System with an Ozone Generator

Watch the Y outube short here: Installing ozone generator into water tank

Installing Your Springer Series Cistern Pump: A Comprehensive Guide

How To Install Your Springer Series Cistern Pump

Underground Reservoir Systems for Low Yield Wells

How to Install And Underground Well Reservoir System

Understanding the Need for an Underground Cistern

Step-by-Step Installation Process

How To Use Submersible Pumps for Drip Irrigation

One of the most common questions we receive is: “Can I use a submersible pump for drip irrigation systems?”

1. Drip Tape

2. Drip Emitters

3. Drip Tubing

To set up a Drip Irrigation System like the one in the video above you'll need:

What To Do With An Old Cistern

Products mentioned in this article

How to Determine Your Rainwater Harvesting Tank Size

Key Considerations:

Sizing Recommendations:

Takeaway:

Water Storage Systems: A Solution for Low Yield Wells

Introduction

Choosing the Right Tank

Setting Up the Tank

Installing the Pump

Handling Electrical Connections

Safety Measures

Final Checks and Troubleshooting

Products and Services

Summary

Plumbing Rainwater Systems For Homes: What You Need To Know

Access to Public Water

Working with Regulations

Cost-Effectiveness

Off-Grid or No Public Water Access?

Conclusion

How To Install A Littlefuse Pumpsaver On Your Low Yield Well

Protect Your Well Pump with Little Fuse PumpSaver

Introduction: Meet the Little Fuse PumpSaver

Understanding Your Pump Needs

Starting Up the PumpSaver

Conclusion: Reliable Protection for Your Well Pump

Pump Saver & Over Load Relay with NEMA 3R Enclosure Box (up to 1.5hp) ﻿

Cistern Cleaning: How To and How Often

Cistern cleaning and maintenance

How often should I clean my cistern/water tank?

What other steps are needed for cistern maintenance?

How to clean your cistern/water tank

Is It Illegal To Collect Rainwater? Here’s the Truth

Troubleshooting and Starting Your Submersible Cistern Pump

Procedure to Start up Your Pump

Introduction

Step 1: Initial Preparations

Step 2: Purge the Air

Step 3: Energize the Circuit

Step 4: Check Power Supply and Connections

Step 5: Inspect External Components

Pump Saver & Over Load Relay with NEMA 3R Enclosure Box (up to 1.5hp)